A secondary method to test for a blown headgasket?

[Dan-TSS]

Well, I was out tuning and managed to melt off the electrodes to two sparkplugs.(Cyl#2&Cyl#6)

I knew something was up becuase the car dogged out and felt wierd.
I nursed the car back to the shop and popped the hood. The coolant bottle was full and bubbling.(Temp. gauge and Nistune showed acceptable temperature)

*I started the car, and pulled it into the shop and proceeded to pull the plugs and check compression.
All numbers show ok.(1,2,3,4,5,6...145/145/145/140/150/145)
I replaced the rad. cap and thought that might be the issue, drained the over flow back down and topped the coolant off, then let the car warm-up again.
After it was warm, I rev-up the engine a few times and bubbles proceed to show in the overflow.
I'm concerned and don't want to waste my time with a teardown if it isn't needed.
*Shouldn't a blown headgasket show in the compression on a warmed engine?
*Shouldn't I be getting alot of white exhaust?
*The oil is the same color as usual, the coolant is the same color as usual...just this bubbling over flow bottle....??????
**Ideas?, Opinions?, Alternate way to verify a problem here?
Dan

[Dan-TSS]

Nope!

**HEAD GASKETS CAN PARTIALLY BLOW!

I just found this out.
:cry:

I stopped, but not soon enough. I found that by the time I got the wires off and the plugs out to do a compression check that the engine cools enough to not allow any signs of a blown head gasket.(so I figure??!) I do get a very small amount of whitish exhaust when I rev-up it up and let it drop to idle.(But that is hard as hell to tell for sure because it is friggin cold out and the exhaust is steaming anyways.)
*Truth be known, the coolant overflow bottle will not show any bubbling action even when allowed to idle and warm up to the point where the e-fan cycles on/off. It only starts to show bubbling action after it is warm and I tug on the throttle a few times...from there on out, it will bubble.

I wonder if it is worth the time to pull the plenum, and re-torque the head bolts(I haven't done this since I initially torqued them when it was assembled last) The engine has less than a tank of gas put through it now...
I'd be so pissed to find that I pulled it apart to do the re-torque and wasted time/along with another upper plenum gasket, just to find out that the issue is still there.
*How many people actually pull the plenum after the initial run-in to double check/re-torque the head bolts?
RRRR..I might as well order another set of gaskets and just swallow the pride and pull it all back apart again.
:roll:
Dan
(Atleast the valve train and compression is good still & now I know that the amount of backpressure created from a clipped wheel and this set-up means that 16psi is the max!)

[Firehawk]

You could try retorquing, but I would just replace the head gasket and find out what caused the problem in the first place. Typically once a gasket deforms enough to let out pressure, a retorque will not fix the damage.