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  • Master Cylinder Dead?

    Im pretty Sure my master cylinder is dead.

    Me and a buddy COMPLETELY re-bled and flushed out my brake system, and we replaced it all with DOT3 sythetic brake fluid.
    Now... I did a 2 HOUR bleeding job up to the point where there wasnt ONE SLIGHT microscopic air bubble, we got it to a point where just fluid comes out each bleeder valve.

    Now... during the bleeding, after the bleeding, and before we ever started the bleeding, the master cylinder always makes a "air sound" whenever someone pumps the pedal, and there is a LITTLE TINY bubble inside the top of the master cylinder where the fluid is. Its extremely hard to explain. But if you open up the cap to the cylinder, and look down into it (filled with brake fluid of course) and look at a little "crevice" inside the cylinder while someone continues the pedal, you can see a little bubble. But... the bubble DOES NOT surface, so its not an air leak I dont think?

    But after this PERFECT bleed job the brakes dont grab until 1/2 way but if you pump it 2 or 3 times you only need to push them down 1/4th to grab,

    Is my master dead? (or dying?)

    How do you take it off?
    I know you need to take off 2 bolts on each side.
    The hard lines.
    What else is involved?

    After I replace it do I need to re-bleed everything again/
    thx
    1SIKZ31 -86 SlickTop- R.I.P. 03/01/10 ... Parted out :-(
    ... New Project: LS1 Miata. Complete. 510whp. 2500lbs.
    1 Month Away from Rear Mount 76 --> 650-700whp.

  • #2
    After those two bolts and the hard lines most likley you will have to pull the resivoir out of the master cyl. itself to get a new remanufactured one. You have to use your old plastic resi.

    BE CARFUL when you pull it out because they are brittle and break easily. use screwdrivers and prybars but TAKE YOUR TIME!

    And yes you will need to relbleed everything again.
    85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
    04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

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    • #3
      I had the same thing happen. I purchased a new master cyl. and that fixed the problem. Make sure you use a flair nut/line wrench on those hard lines or you will be sorry! You will need to bench bleed the new master cyl. Bench bleeding is not hard at all....just follow the instructions given with your new master cyl.

      Good luck.
      Elitist Prick Black Z owner.
      1986 300zx Turbo
      2011 Ford F150 Super Crew 4x2 EcoBOOST
      1985 Toyota 4Runner, locked, lifted, geared, uglied.

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      • #4
        You may also want to do a search on using a twin turbo master cylinder. I suggested this about 2 years ago on Z31.com and got flamed all to hell with people saying that it was a dumb idea.

        Then I started seeing people using the TT master cyl. and having good results. :roll: Go figure.
        85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
        04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20... underway for summertime daily driver.

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        • #5
          SATAN wrote: You may also want to do a search on using a twin turbo master cylinder. I suggested this about 2 years ago on Z31.com and got flamed all to hell with people saying that it was a dumb idea.

          Then I started seeing people using the TT master cyl. and having good results. :roll: Go figure.
          Is the TT Master better?
          Same design?

          WHat are the advantages.
          I work at autozone so I have a 20% off advantage and will order that rather an a stock z31 one if it really is better.



          Also
          Whenever you take off the hard lines and those 2 bolts... what do you mean take out the reservoir? sorry im an idiot.
          heh.
          1SIKZ31 -86 SlickTop- R.I.P. 03/01/10 ... Parted out :-(
          ... New Project: LS1 Miata. Complete. 510whp. 2500lbs.
          1 Month Away from Rear Mount 76 --> 650-700whp.

          Comment


          • #6
            larger diameter piston, less front bias (front calipers are more grippy)

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