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Headlight Switch: Contact Reconditioning

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  • #16
    I haven't seen it mentioned so far and I think it's worth bringing up.
    The 88-89 style switches, the ones with different connectors, also have
    differently designed fingers. Instead of being straight, they are kinked just at the
    spot where the toggle block touches them. This makes it exceedingly difficult to repair this type of switch,
    because once you bend it out of whack, it's very hard to get it back into the right shape. I actually gave up
    on mine and wired the connector from an earlier model car in so I could use the previous style switch.
    I broke into it 3 times and it just kept screwing back up after a day or less. Now that it has the switch
    I repaired in the 85 and ran in the truck, it works flawlessly, as it did in the previous vehicles it graced.

    Now I'm not saying "rewire your car to use the older style switches". I just want people with 88-89's to be aware
    that they are in for a little more than the write ups prepare them for. If you can carefully clean the contacts without
    bending the fingers at all, you should be okay. However, the option is there. I didn't use the FSM
    but a simple comparison between years will show you how to convert the harness if you do decide to go this route.
    If there is a legitimate interest I might be willing to do a write up of the process and create some diagrams.
    Feel free to PM me to 'vote'.

    88 N/A GL
    https://sites.google.com/site/distortionfile/
    My Comedy Website. Who knows, you might laugh.

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    • #17
      I just recently ran into a unexpected failure mode for the switch on my 84T (the one reconditioned in the first post)
      It's been in the mid 90's lately and the increase in cabin temperature while the car is parked (with a reflective sun shade)
      is causing the switch contacts to flex just enough to turn on the marker lights when it gets hot.

      I've had a dead battery twice now, because it was lazier of me to put the battery on a charger than to tear the column
      apart in the hot weather after work. I did notice a few months ago that when I'd actuate the turn indicator up or down,
      the dash lights would blip, a indication that it was failing.


      84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo

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      • #18
        Could a faulty switch also cause clearance lights to not work? I dont have any of the four side clearance lights (turn signals, I think?), or rear clearance lights when headlights (or clearance lights, for that matter) are on. Would it be a safe bet to try checking contacts on this switch for that issue, or is it better to try elsewhere first? Fuse is good for clearance lights as well. All the other lights do work though (front/rear turns, brake, reverse, low/high beams).

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        • #19
          Have you checked the bulbs?
          Hmmm, Whats next?
          Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.

          84ZXT

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          • #20
            shromy wrote: Have you checked the bulbs?
            No, but dont they share bulbs with the brake lights?

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            • #21
              [quote]maverickxeo wrote:
              Originally posted by shromy
              Have you checked the bulbs?
              No, but dont they share bulbs with the brake lights?
              Dual filament bulbs...the filaments for the tail lights could be blown, doesn't necessarily mean the filaments for the brake lights are.
              - VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra -

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