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Crank Shaft Timing Gear: How do I get it off?

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  • Crank Shaft Timing Gear: How do I get it off?

    Hey, I'm doing a timing belt change currently and I can't seem to get my Crank Shaft Timing Gear (the gear at the very bottom of the timing belt, right next to the tensioner) off so that I can replace the crank seals and plate and what not. Haynes says to use 2 screw drivers to pry it off, but thats not really working. Any tips/suggestions would be great as I am in dire need to get this thing back together. Thanks!

    ~es3
    ~es3

  • #2
    a gear puller maybe?

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    • #3
      I can't even get it off far enough to put a gear puller on it. Perhaps I'm not thinking of the same piece of equipment? I have a puller, but I have to get it off about 1/4" to 1/2" before I could actually get it on. is there a special type of puller to do this?
      ~es3

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      • #4
        There are a few methods I know of:

        1. Remove the woodruff key (non-w motors only) and attempt to hammer on the gear with an extension until it turns.

        2. Use a medium sized pickle fork, wedge it in front of the small guard plate and be prepared to replace it and the gear.

        3. Drill and tap holes to use a standard steering wheel or gear puller on it

        4. Drill a hole in the gear right outside the keyway, then hit it with a chisel to break it into two pieces.

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        • #5
          Jason84NA2T wrote: There are a few methods I know of:

          1. Remove the woodruff key (non-w motors only) and attempt to hammer on the gear with an extension until it turns.

          2. Use a medium sized pickle fork, wedge it in front of the small guard plate and be prepared to replace it and the gear.

          3. Drill and tap holes to use a standard steering wheel or gear puller on it

          4. Drill a hole in the gear right outside the keyway, then hit it with a chisel to break it into two pieces.
          wow...so use a new one

          Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

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          • #6
            I've only ever had to remove two factory-installed ones, and both times I messed up the gear in the process anyway. It's a $26 part lots of dealers have in stock for just that reason, not a big deal.

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            • #7
              Jason84NA2T wrote: It's a $26 part lots of dealers have in stock for just that reason, not a big deal.
              Oh good grief...I wish I would have realized that 2 years ago. :evil: I cant even begin to describe the #$*^$%@@%& I went through getting that @#!@#$% thing off because I was sure it would cost me my first born child. I got it off in reusable condition and its in use today, but....

              Hmm...I feel suddenly stupid. :?

              Live and learn I suppose.
              Just stand back and throw money.
              Performance costs money.
              Reliable performance costs more.

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              • #8
                just because it's cheap isn't reason to go caveman on the car

                well unless the part is rusted solid and a complete waste in the first place, then cut/torch/beat/blast whatever it takes

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                • #9
                  ok, so I finally got it off. I got a right angle extention for my drill (craftsman) for about 20 bucks at sears. Kinda wobbled, and the hole that I made was not directly over the key thing. It was taking forever, so my dad and I took out a grinder and ground off the entire top half. I replaced the seal, and it was just fine. I woke up at 10 AM today and its 4:30PM now. I feel like my time and money has been wasted, haha. Not really. At least I know that it is fine now. By the way, just to make sure I did this right. I took the crank seal, and nissan already had lube in the middle, so I left that alone, and I put some red high temperature silicone sealant on the outside, rubbed it around, and worked it in place with my fingers. I pushed it in as hard as I could. Should be fine, right?
                  ~es3

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                  • #10
                    Glad you got it figured out.

                    The seal should be fine if it's pretty much flush with the outside lip of the housing.

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                    • #11
                      i wondered about this myslef and figured i could not pull it off so i would let the engine shop do it as to not naff up the gear, i already broke my harmonic balancer from using the wrong tools to get it off , drilling 2 holes sounds like the way to go,
                      85 Turbo Slick Top
                      __________________________________________________ _____

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                      • #12
                        If I drill the holes to get it out, I probably still need to replace it, huh?

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                        • #13
                          old thread alert!! check the dates before posting!

                          1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
                          1990 jetta vr6'd

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                          • #14
                            DeleriousZ wrote: old thread alert!! check the dates before posting!
                            Agreed, but seriously? The screwdriver idea Haynes says worked best for me...
                            - VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra -

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                            • #15
                              me too actually, i just stuck a screwdriver behind it and gave it a quick twist, and it popped right off for me.

                              1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
                              1990 jetta vr6'd

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