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L28ET with nasty coolant passage rust

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  • L28ET with nasty coolant passage rust

    Does anyone know of a fix for coolant passage rust?

    I just drained my coolant again today and it was still pretty rusty, even though I did it last year at about this time. The majority of it came out green/olive green, which is much better than last time, but I still had rust sludge in the bottom of my resovoir.

    Why is it like this? Well, my L28ET motor came from the junkyard. It was in a 1981 blue/silver 280ZX Turbo that was literally bent in half and looked like it had been there for quite some time. It runs awesome, but...well...you get what you pay for sometimes.

    I'm going to run some flush stuff in it and drain it again and then add some anti-rust/water pump lubricant to it, but is there anything else I can do?
    1976 280Z 2+2 Turbo
    '81 L28ET, '84 Turbo ECCS, '84-'85 rotors + Toyota 4x4 front calipers + 240SX rears, Z31 DXD Stage I clutch kit, Evo intercooler, Tokico lowering springs and HP blues
    "I drive an S30...your stock equipment is my future upgrade!"

  • #2
    my best option when I deal with this is the same stuff I'd use in the house....CLR(calcium,lime,rust)
    Most hardware stores and retial stores carry it.
    I like to pull the drain plugs on the side of the engine block and flush it out...then put the drain plugs back in...mix in some watered down CLR and let it sit for an hour.(this is of course when the heads on the VG30 are off...)
    Flushes away if not all, almost all of the rust and build-up.
    **IS there a rotted radiator or heater core connected in your system?
    Just becuase it isn't leaking of fogging the inside of windshield doesn't mean it isn't bad..
    Attached Files
    I am here to help...

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    • #3
      I'm not going to take off the head to do that. I'm sure that any amount of CLR is too harsh to run through my cooling system.

      I'm pretty sure the radiator is fine. It was professionally cleaned and repaired twice back in 2004. (stupid mechanical fan!)
      1976 280Z 2+2 Turbo
      '81 L28ET, '84 Turbo ECCS, '84-'85 rotors + Toyota 4x4 front calipers + 240SX rears, Z31 DXD Stage I clutch kit, Evo intercooler, Tokico lowering springs and HP blues
      "I drive an S30...your stock equipment is my future upgrade!"

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      • #4
        If you use a drive-in flush additive (which have fairly mild detergents) you can sometimes get more of the gunk out... probably because the water flow rate changes with engine speed. One of of the very few times that "keep flushing!" might be the solution?

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        • #5
          take the top radiator hose off at the highest point in the system and run the engine while keeping the radiator full of clean water (use a garden hose), this is how I flush my cars. if you do that after using the flush stuff the water should eventually come out totally clean.

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