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Car dying/stalling during warm-up (code 21?)

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  • Car dying/stalling during warm-up (code 21?)

    When i start up the car starts strong and runs strong for about a minute. Then it gets rough, sputters and dies! After about 3 starts, it'll stay running, but rough. When i step on the gas, it bogs down, sputters and tries to stall, console lights flickering and all. if i gradually bring the throttle up, it'll accelerate slowly and rough. After a few times of bringing it up to about 3k, it'll let me floor it, but with about a second delay. After a couple of these, it'll run fine. If the car sits for more than about 20 minutes, i have to do this process again. Seems to be getting worse and lasting longer.

    Any ideas?

    I ran the diagnostic with the car running and it returned a code 21 which points to Ignition Signal. Dunno what its referring to. Thats the only code im getting. Recently changed the cat and fpr. Plugs are new and dont look fouled. The MAF was replaced a couple years ago. wtf is the deal? lol. The only thing i can think of is maybe the distributor? rotor? dist. cap? Am i on the right track? Which is more likely? Someone had suggested the transistor or the coil. wtf, thats a lotta "could be"s!
    It needs more... i dunno... velocity!

  • #2
    The CHTS would be a likely suspect for this problem. Disconnect it at the engine harness and check the cold/hot resistance roughly against the values in your FSM.

    If you are getting a bad ignition signal, it's most likely a bad crank angle sensor (in the distributor) or the wiring between the distributor and the ECU.
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      yeah, and welcome

      Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

      Comment


      • #4
        ok then. i'm a slight noob, i work on jets more than cars so you're gonna have to help me out haha. where is that sensor located? and how do i test it as you were suggesting? i dont have the fsm yet so...
        It needs more... i dunno... velocity!

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        • #5
          http://www.carfiche.com

          Terrible idea putting those wheels on...

          Comment


          • #6
            that fiche would be swell if it were ever available =). Another question... considering it get REAL rough and dies when i give it gas during the warmup, but wont fuss if i accelerate very slowly... could that suggest vapor lock in the fuel delivery??

            it was also suggested that its probably the power transistor. im not 100% clear on how the chts works, a buddy of mine suggested that it only really controls the core temp reading on the gauge, and nothing related to fuel or ignition. Or at least thats how most cars are. i dont know either way. care to clarify?
            It needs more... i dunno... velocity!

            Comment


            • #7
              http://carfish.mentally-challenged.com/
              It may not be a Z, but it's still got a turbo...

              Comment


              • #8
                MONEY! nice, thanks!
                It needs more... i dunno... velocity!

                Comment


                • #9
                  dasjestyr wrote: that fiche would be swell if it were ever available =). Another question... considering it get REAL rough and dies when i give it gas during the warmup, but wont fuss if i accelerate very slowly... could that suggest vapor lock in the fuel delivery??

                  it was also suggested that its probably the power transistor. im not 100% clear on how the chts works, a buddy of mine suggested that it only really controls the core temp reading on the gauge, and nothing related to fuel or ignition. Or at least thats how most cars are. i dont know either way. care to clarify?
                  No. The CHTS is NOT the same as the temperature sensor itself. The CHTS takes a reading of the head temperature and tells the ECU to send a varying amount of fuel based on the temperature of the head. This is a VERY common problem on Z31's and the VG30 specifically. It's located behind the timing covers on the driver's side head on the front of the block. The lead from the EFI harness comes from the passenger side and runs across your intake manifold and down to the sensor.

                  Hope this helps.
                  Originally posted by Andrew84zx
                  tell her your car is so fast it will make her panties fly off
                  545 RWHP & 540 RWTQ

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My z did this exact same thing except my diag told me CHTS i was going to replace it but figured ill look at the sub harness first, well the harness and sensor were badly caroded so i got my electrical cleaner cleaned the sensor as best as i could and the sub harness being 20yrs old was bad, had 1 spot cracked and bare and the plug to sensor fell apart when i took it off well i went to dealer got a new sub harness for $23 and wala code went away and runs great.
                    Part # 24079-01p00 took the guy like 20 minutes to find the dang thing that should make it easier if you need one.

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