Rear Caliper E-Brake Bearing (FIXED, UPDATED, PICS!!)

[matico40]

Before I start, PLEASE make educated posts and keep comments to yourself. I don't want to hear "why are you spending so much time on this?" or "why don't you just buy a reman unit from AZone?", etc.
I am doing this for the sake of knowledge and also to have the pleasure of doing everything myself.


I am going to do the rear suspension/brake upgrade from the kouki.
White taking the caliper apart I didn't know that in order to take the e-brake "lever" I needed to remove the piston and the internal components first, so I "over-turned" the "lever" and messed up the bearing inside.

Nissan does not sell the bearing, it is pressed in the caliper so I was wondering if I could find one aftermarket. I checked everywhere by the sizes written on the actual bearing (7E-HKS 15.8x20.6x19-1 OS (or O5) NTN) but I could not find anything.

Anyone know where I can find these? wouldn't it be better to put a phosphor brass bushing in there? Any other solutions?
As a last resort I'm going to buy a reman unit, take it apart and rebuild it again with my own parts (except the bearing of course).

Here are the pics:

Caliper shot


Bearing Close up:



What's left of the needles:


Thanks in advance for all the help

[DeleriousZ]

Re: Bet you've never seen this before (Rear Caliper)

I appreciate where you're coming from but this really does seem like a whole lot more trouble than it's worth.

[floridaZ]

Re: Bet you've never seen this before (Rear Caliper)

Could always have a shop machine up a new one, but that's $$$. If Nissan doesn't offer new ones though, IDK where you could buy them then. Seeing as it is a bearing I would think it would be a wear item and thus there has to be a supply for re-manned units somewhere.

[Racinjitter]

Re: Bet you've never seen this before (Rear Caliper)

Well you have hte most improtant information right in front of you. Now, you will have to go to a local bearing shop and see what they can provide for you. It looks to be a timken part number. Take the bearing part number that you have along with the parts that you have left of it to the oldest person behind the counter. He should be able to help you find that specific bearing. I did a simple google search and came up with minimal information except that mazda uses the same bearings in their parking brake levers for the miata.

[SnooZn]

Re: Bet you've never seen this before (Rear Caliper)

Might be useful:

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/ntn-corp ... -4181.html

http://www.ntnamerica.com/NTN_Roller_Bearings.htm

PT

[matico40]

Re: Bet you've never seen this before (Rear Caliper)

thanks guys! I did the google search too and that's what I saw...plus it seems to be encripted or in another language lol.

Another thing I forgot to mention, this is not a "whole" bearing...it has a hole so the pin that pushes the piston can go through...so it's even more unique (damn!)

[Careless]

Re: Bet you've never seen this before (Rear Caliper)

take a pilot bushing and see if it is the same ID and OD and depth.

if it is, you can use a nismo pilot bearing, which is 28 dollars. it's a needle bearing.

[matico40]

Re: Bet you've never seen this before (Rear Caliper)

If the needle bearings that come from factory did not have that slot then it would be possible to find them. However, that slot makes the piece so unique that....well, good luck! lol.

Solution: I went to a bushing house, they had bronze bushings (better than the bearings...so it's an "upgrade" lol) with the same height and ID, but the OD was bigger. So I took them to a machine shop and told them to
1) Bring the OD to OEM specs (gave them the sample)
2) Make the slot so the pin could go through.

They charged me $145 to do that (fuck!!). It is an expensive solution, but a solution nonetheless. I told you I was going to fix it lol

OEM vs Brass bushing (obviously the OEM is missing the needles inside)





And a little preview of what's going on....ceramic coated and ready for the oven!

[Careless]

so you paid them ONE HUNDRED AND FORTY FIVE dollars to do that?

you could have bought a sealed bearing cage or 50 of them and tried using a dremel to gently create your own hole, or better yet, buy a sanding drum with flexible and low-grit emery paper and you could have bought a mic and a dremel kit.... and then find a bronze bushing at lowes with the same ID and grind it down using the sanding drum and make your hole using your dremel.

not a smart move for a bushing.

you could have bought some great tools to get the job done at home for that money... seriously.

[matico40]

Careless wrote: so you paid them ONE HUNDRED AND FORTY FIVE dollars to do that?

you could have bought a sealed bearing cage or 50 of them and tried using a dremel to gently create your own hole, or better yet, buy a sanding drum with flexible and low-grit emery paper and you could have bought a mic and a dremel kit.... and then find a bronze bushing at lowes with the same ID and grind it down using the sanding drum and make your hole using your dremel.

not a smart move for a bushing.

you could have bought some great tools to get the job done at home for that money... seriously.

I tried buying the freaking bearing but I just couldn't find one....came across the oprtunity of the bushing so I went for it.
Yes, I could have spent the money in tools, etc... maybe next time

[vagabond]

Research and development cost money. Great job man.

[Careless]

matico40 wrote: I tried buying the freaking bearing but I just couldn't find one....came across the oprtunity of the bushing so I went for it.
Yes, I could have spent the money in tools, etc... maybe next time

I understand. But the machinist is laughing right now.

145 bucks for a piece of copper that he chucked into a drill press and drilled a hole into :-/

what's done is done.

[Doug]

matico40,

It looks like you painted the threads of all the mounting bolts. That's generally a bad idea - the torque you measure when tightening the bolts won't just be from the friction and bolt elongation Nissan engineers expected when determining the torque spec, but will include some unknown amount of resistance from the tighter clearances and paint deforming. No telling how that paint will change the properties of a pretty critical bolted joint.

Careful putting those back together!

[matico40]

Doug wrote: matico40,

It looks like you painted the threads of all the mounting bolts. That's generally a bad idea - the torque you measure when tightening the bolts won't just be from the friction and bolt elongation Nissan engineers expected when determining the torque spec, but will include some unknown amount of resistance from the tighter clearances and paint deforming. No telling how that paint will change the properties of a pretty critical bolted joint.

Careful putting those back together!

awesome! thanks

[supertoad120]

Doug wrote: matico40,

It looks like you painted the threads of all the mounting bolts. That's generally a bad idea - the torque you measure when tightening the bolts won't just be from the friction and bolt elongation Nissan engineers expected when determining the torque spec, but will include some unknown amount of resistance from the tighter clearances and paint deforming. No telling how that paint will change the properties of a pretty critical bolted joint.

Careful putting those back together!

This is called prevailing torque. When using self locking nuts or fasteners that have resistance when threading, the standard accepted practice is to measure the amount of torque required to thread the fastener, and just add this value to your target torque.