Headlight wiring question

Previous 1 2
  • DeleriousZ
    DeleriousZ
    Senior Member
    • 6874
    #16
    nyc_86z wrote: so its my headlight switch?


    follow the sticky.

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd
  • Sharpen047
    Sharpen047
    Senior Member
    • 507
    #17
    [quote]Mitchd03 wrote:
    Originally posted by Sharpen047
    Alright thanks a lot seems easy enough. are 85 86 87 numbers you made up or are they a standard?I didn't make the image, I just found it on the net, but yes, they are standard numbers, the relays in my car have the same numbers.

    Sharpen047 wrote:
    Originally posted by Sharpen047
    Does it matter which side of the bulb is wired? or as long as they are on the + and - and not the ground they are ok?
    i am guessing 20 amps is a safe amount to run through stock wiring with 30 amp relays?
    This double relay setup is a bit safer right? id rather spend a few extra bucks on a relay and fuse than have no more car.
    Wow, you're right, you really don't know much about relays, or electricity in general. No offence, it can be pretty confusing.
    Okay, for ease of explanation, - wires pretty much bolt straight to the body. Chassis ground is negative.
    If you're running relays, you're not running 20 amps through the stock wiring, that's the point of running a relay.
    Two 100w bulbs at 12v will draw 16 2/3 amps, at 14.4V (engine running) its a 13.8A draw.

    The double relay setup is necessary for highbeam/lowbeam. One relay for lowbeams, one relay for highbeams.

    I've got a single relay setup on my zed powering driving lights, I'll make a basic video explaining how to set up a pair of relays for headlights.
    haha none taken.
    i have been doing some reviews on relays and whatnot and found out not many are made for lighting systems.. radioshack seems to sell crap ones along with every local store. Was told to look for bosch but i know hella is a "good" company and found some of their relays here: http://www.amazon.com/Hella-003510087-M … d_sxp_f_pt
    Would you use these? and is there anything wrong with using 12 gauge wire to be safe?(I can find cheaper name-brand 12 gauge than generic 14 or 16)
    and which headlight connectors should i buy? male or female?and how would you put a fuse in the wire? Is speaker wire okay?
  • 862sik
    862sik
    Senior Member
    • 2159
    #18
    I used the OEM relays in the factory blanks in the relay box so that it wont clutter my engine when I did my headlight relay upgrade.
    My Build Thread
  • Sharpen047
    Sharpen047
    Senior Member
    • 507
    #19
    Mitchd03 wrote: Short answer no, long answer is yes if you carry a fire extinguisher.

    Assuming you've got an American z31, are you going from sealed beams to H4 semi sealed and want to go with 100w's straight away, or are you going from 60/55w's to 100w's?

    If you haven't already, go for the 60w H4's before you go out and buy a relay kit, or make your own relay harness up.

    EDIT: In fact, run a relay kit BEFORE you put 100w bulbs in, it might improve your light output substantially. It did on my friend's R31 Pintara (I4 skyline) central spotlights.


    The spotlight on the left of the above image is standard on early R31 skylines with the RB30E, but not on Pintaras with the CA20E. Friend stuck spotlights on his Pintara used a relay off the battery using the highbeams as a trigger, and his headlights were miles brighter than the stock ones on my R31 Skyline.
    I am looking more for the beam pattern rather than light output although light output will be nice
  • Mitchd03
    Mitchd03
    Senior Member
    • 891
    #20
    The only way to change the beam pattern is to change the glass housings.

    You said you were converting to H4's rather than sealed beams? Sealed beams have a shit beam pattern.
  • 862sik
    862sik
    Senior Member
    • 2159
    #21
    converting to h4 beam was the best thing I ever done. I didnt even need higher wattage bulbs.

    There are the euro clear h4 housings, and the other one with the flutterd lens. I had both. The h4 beam euroclear was nice but it had no distinctive cutoff. it was just out there. But I purchased the Hella E-code (still left hand drive) one for about 40 bucks and those were much better and looked cleaner.

    The euroclear looked IMO cheap. It was nice at first but not with the look im trying to achieve.
    My Build Thread
  • Mitchd03
    Mitchd03
    Senior Member
    • 891
    #22
    Hella E-codes are great. I had one 7" round one in my Subaru Wagon, the passenger side was a sealed beam. Was definitely acceptable, needed spotlights for long country roads though.
  • dbruce
    dbruce
    Senior Member
    • 258
    #23
    bump … going to upgrade (H4 1985) for 100w relay harness …
    Anyone have a write-up of their installation … what kit they used … etc …
Previous 1 2