Motor crying

  • xanmanz31
    xanmanz31
    Senior Member
    • 218

    Motor crying

    just recently swapped motors from original W series to spare A series. the W had bad rings in cylinder 4 also had blown head gasket when i got it. the A series i drove for over a year before parking it for a while. i swapped in the A series block & bottom with the W series heads. i figured shoulndt be an issue. i did a compression test before runnin and all was good 170psi or higher. after that i went ahead and ran it for a bout 10 min. when i cut it off i heard/saw dripping water assumed it was lose hose. didnt have time to check it and it was hot anyway. i just now poured a gallon in and all of a sudden the damn thing starts crying from both heads. craziest thing ive seen yet. its right at the seam between block and head it looks to be everywhere. block was cold and water was too so i wouldnt think that would cause anything..
  • amreboot
    amreboot
    Banned
    • 9875

    #2
    So you are running W-series heads on an A-series block?

    The only acceptable combination for this mix is to have the following:
    W-series heads w/ A-series head gaskets on the A-series block.

    Any other combination will fail.

    If you have done that mix correctly, are you sure you prepped the mating surfaces correctly and torqued to spec?
    Even after cleaning the surfaces of any old head gasket material, you have to make sure the surfaces are oil residue free, brake parts cleaner works well for this.
  • xanmanz31
    xanmanz31
    Senior Member
    • 218

    #3
    yes my combo is A block with A gaskets & W heads. i cleaned multiple times and torqued per haynes manual. stage 1&2 loosen then 3&4. I also did final stage once more before putting valve covers on. Im confused and frustrated beyond all belief.

    http://youtu.be/mmG6JpNppBA[/video]]

    http://youtu.be/LyU7SHxyNVY[/video]]
  • G-E
    G-E
    Junior Member
    • 6320

    #4
    You have to do the re-torque per fsm -- ie. you do it once you've warmed it up to operating temp keeping it at 2000 rpm, retorque when cold won't help you
  • mizagyu
    mizagyu
    Senior Member
    • 539

    #5
    also, check the lower intake.. i had an issue like this once, turned out the felpro lower intake gaskets suck, with and without rtv.. only use oem lol!

    Project Black Betty
  • xanmanz31
    xanmanz31
    Senior Member
    • 218

    #6
    mizagyu;n767186 wrote: also, check the lower intake.. i had an issue like this once, turned out the felpro lower intake gaskets suck, with and without rtv.. only use oem lol!
    the seam at lower intake and head is dry. all the moisture is between head n block
  • xanmanz31
    xanmanz31
    Senior Member
    • 218

    #7
    G-E;n767161 wrote: You have to do the re-torque per fsm -- ie. you do it once you've warmed it up to operating temp keeping it at 2000 rpm, retorque when cold won't help you
    ok ill try that after i disassemble, clean thoroughly and reassemble
  • matt85turbo
    matt85turbo
    Senior Member
    • 101

    #8
    What head gaskets are you using? Multiple people have had fail pro head gaskets fail within a few days.
  • xanmanz31
    xanmanz31
    Senior Member
    • 218

    #9
    me being cheap tried to reuse originals lol. i have actually been successful reusing "fail" pro before.

    im debating on buying head gasket kit and just fixing this A series or bottom up rebuild for the W series i just pulled.

    i do plan on a big upgraded build later on. right now im learning. id rather tear up cheap stuff to learn lessons.