Hose clamps

Kinda depends on the hoses you use, and the style of clamp.

I found 3/8" mini t-bolts worked best on my injector hoses, but later I replaced them with crimp rings.

The radiator ports are 1-5/8" so a 1-3/4" t-bolt will usually work, the silicone hoses might need 2", but a worm clamp you can safely use up to 2-1/4" without a bunch of excess sticking out

I find the heater hoses to be the hardest to match up, they use 20mm tube/hose and 3/4" is usually way too tight, and 7/8" clamps are hard to find

The large powersteering reservoir port is 15mm so a 5/8" t-bolt should work

That's what I remember anyway

Thanks. Guess I'm jumping the gun here. I should do a dry assemble, take measurements then order the clamps.
I will try to remember to take notes and post my results here at a future date.

Gary, Are you going to be using the OEM wire clamps or aftermarket?

I am using OEM wire clamps for the injectors and a mix of T-bolt and Russell hose clamps for most of the applications.

I just bought a bunch of Nissan OEM wire clamps for all the radiator hoses and heater hoses. Not sure how to measure the sizes.

I am re-posting other info on hose clams here for future consideration.

Old vs. new hose clamps?

wbnethery3 ( 10-30-2013, 10:24 PM )
Just wondered what the consensus is on re-using the stock clamps that have the thin parallel "wire hoop" design vs. using conventional worm gear clamps with flat metal bands … I've replaced fuel hose clamps with new worm gear clamps, but just pulled off several on the radiator and other water hoses, and figured I'd save a buck if there's a good record of being able to re-use them. They seem durable in spite of their age, but I wondered what folks smarter than me thought about it… what say you?

G-E
The wire style ones will bite into cheap hose, but they apply even pressure… a good worm type (large) or t-bolt (small) is fine too in the majority of cases, use your discretion.

flatfoot
My luck with reusing the spring type clamps and old hoses is fairly decent the catch is that you have to put the clamp back in its ORIGINAL position on the hose it came from.
I've shredded more that an few hoses using the conventional screw type clamp trying to get it tight. That being said I probably use them the majority of the time because of availability.
The T-bolt style I only use on fuel hoses and intercooler piping just because its harder to make it chew up a hose.

Z_Karma
Ditto. I recondition and reuse the OEM wire hose clamps when and where i can.
I do prefer the newer ones that have the #2phillips/8mm hexhead as opposed to the older ones that just have the #2 phillips head.

Gesler300
I wouldn't use the worm gear type clamp for your fuel system they have a tendency to loosen up. You should use an actual fuel hose clamp for fuel.

Leaky Injectors!

ShamWow (11-04-2006, 08:01 PM)

I agree with Dan on this one. I actually had the same problem about 2 weeks ago. I installed different injectors, and decided to put new hose on every injector and i "secured" it with the top hats. 4 days later 3 injectors were leaking badly. Since then i have re-rebuilt them all again, except this time i used high pressure fuel injection hose clamps. The were like 59cents apiece at NAPA. Since i reinstalled everything, i still am leak free.

G-E
you can also get high pressure hose they call snap-lok or something where it doesn't need a clamp to seal to a barbed fitting, but in general I agree just use the same clamps used elsewhere on the fuel line like at the fpr
go to a wrecker one day and grab a bunch, extras are good to have

Dan-TSS
*The hose size to be used is 5/16" ID. Be sure to use "fuel injection" hose and "Fuel injection hose clamps". The fuel injection hose with the Blue inner liner(good year name brand) is the better of the different kinds avail.

Within the last year I've been through dozens of samples from hoseclamp manufacturers/styles for a project here at work. I've used several ABA/Norma/Breeze, Ideal, Mikalor lined and unlined. Gates premium hoses, Parker Push-lok, Federal silicone hose, VenAir silicone hose etc, SwageLok, Yor-Lok, Parker…etc…Basically we have High power lamp assemblies that are water cooled and work great in the factory until they go over seas where water quality and pressures are uncontrolled. I've pressure tested various combinations from 3 month on-off pulse testing @ 95PSI with a booster pump, to burst testing of hoses to over 800PSI with a hydrostatic pump. I'm not an expert, but have done a fair amount of testing recently.

My 0.02$

Coolant:
The wider the band, the more of a seal you will get. And you absolutely get what you pay for as far as materials.

Nissan probably used wire clamps for range, cost and equalized clamping force.

If cost wasn't an issue, I'd prefer bolt style due to the larger band width, but they have very narrow limits for clamping range.
But since it is an issue, i usually get mine (OEM wire) from the junkyards (#2 phillips/8mm hex) off of motors that have little corrosion.

Fuel:
ABA SS mini (16-17mm iirc) for any fuel hoses. torqued to 14 in-lbs.
http://www.normagroup.com/norma.nsf/…ini_folder.pdf

Or OEM Nissan SS clamps. The ABA are nice because of the hex head, but there is nothing wrong with the
ones Nissan originally used. A dab of silicone grease will keep them from binding/kinking if they hose they
are clamping on is tacky (silicone hose)

For the ABA W4 mini fuel clamps, which size do you recommend for the 5/16" I.D. fuel hose? The catalog lists them as nominal diameter which O.D., correct?

I'd probably go with the 14.
Assuming the 5/16 ID fuel line has a OD of 9/16.

9/16=14.29mm

Size 14 has a 12.5-14.5mm range.
That will give you plenty of range for tightening. It might be a snug fit to get it on the hose
but it can either be slipped on easier with a dab of silicone grease (Parker O-lube, NAPA Syl-Glide)
or be assembled on the hose after the barb.

Edit: You can get these from McMaster.

http://i.imgur.com/ZeOxpUz.jpg