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Just looking for any thoughts or suggestions on where to start for an intermittent issue with my dash. My temp gauge works when it wants to, it will go months working fine, then months not working. Normally more of a nuisance than anything as I've had no concerns with over heating, leaks or anything. Now that I'm about to change my water pump/thermostat I'd like to make sure it's working so if there's any problems from the change in parts I'll know before it's too late. Everything else on the dash works fine except the fuel gauge runs from full to empty on the top 1/3rd of my tank, so I assume sending unit and not related. Any thoughts or ideas what the possible culprit could be before I tear more apart on my car before getting it put back together first. -
mine bounces around whenever it wants to, if i slam the dash it'll work again. best off to get an aftermarket gauge anyway.
1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
1990 jetta vr6'd -
as simple a fix as the slam the dash option is, I'm looking for a more.....useful option. I could do an after market but the car is not modified, it's a daily driver, I'd rather keep as much stock components in there as possible and keep it uncluttered. I haven't removed the dash but wasn't sure if anyone knew if that was on a separate plug in the back of the dash that might be loose or if there's somewhere else I should be looking. -
If its a digital dash it sounds like the powersupply is on its way out.
The solder joint at the connector eventually comes loose.
You can either try and resolder it, I haven't had any long lasting success, or snag a new one.Life's short
Go fast
Have a blast
Leave a good looking corpse -
Ever driven an old G100 Daihatsu Charade with a tachometer? None of them work. I was driving mine when I overtook another on on the highway, and her tacho was on zero, too. Then I went over a bump and mine started working.
Anyway, I pulled the gauge cluster out, and although I didn't see anything, I re-soldered all the joins on the back of the gauge cluster that had to do with the tachometer, and now it works correctly.
Couldn't see any cracks.
The other alternative is to look at the wire coming off the temp sender and make sure its not earthing out on anything. Electrical gauges work on resistance, and if the wire is earthing out the resistance drops down to close to zero, instead of the, for example, 100-500?'s needed to make the gauge read correctly.
Or, buy an aftermarket temp gauge. More accurate anyway.
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It is an analog dash, I should have clarified that sorry. Mitch thanks I'll pull the dash cluster out today and see if I can see anything otherwise. I'll also check the temp sensor for any thing that may be grounding it out. -
repair the wire going to the temp sender. it's a single wire between the bank 1 and 3 on the LIM.
mine was cracked, so I just used a crimp terminal, and used a new length of wire. I then wrapped it in loom, and stiffened it up with e-tape so that the wire doesn't jiggle. -
Between the spark plugs? I suppose since I'll be replacing the plugs it's as good a time as any then, thanks Careless -
yes. if you make the loom going to that sensor really rigid/stiff, you can press it on without having to use pliers or anything because it's a little tight.Richard_85ZXT wrote: Between the spark plugs? I suppose since I'll be replacing the plugs it's as good a time as any then, thanks Careless
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