Inhibitor switch?

  • Nathan18
    Nathan18
    Senior Member
    • 126

    Inhibitor switch?

    So… I'm almost done with the swap!! All I have left is the Inhibitor switch.. it's hard the 4 pin (84 turbo), how in the help do I wire this thing up? It's rightright besides the battery and iI have to wire it down to the side of the tranny? How! Or can I bypass it so much can can atleast start?

    Yes, i've searched and read, but I'm not making head of tail outout of any of this. I please help. thanks

    P.S. sorry for not using perfect grammer.. doing this from my damn phone and in a hurry. Lol
    '84 Z31 Turbo
    '85 Z31 N/A parting out..
  • Rhoads91
    Rhoads91
    Member
    • 58

    #2
    You don't need to bypass it down there. In your relay box there's a gray relay towards the front of the car that's labeled Inhibitor. Just jump terminals 6 and 7 with a bit of wire and she'll start up.
    1986 Grand National: 2800RPM stall converter, Shift Kit, 275/50R15 MT Drag Radials, Dutt Neck IC, Progressive Methanol Injection, 60MM DBB Turbo, 3inch DP through a 2.5inch muffled dual catback that's STOCK QUIET, 42.5lb injectors, Hotwired Walbro 255. Tuned for 25psi, and Daily Driven.
    1987 Z31: That's for me to know, and you to find out. Eventually.
  • Nathan18
    Nathan18
    Senior Member
    • 126

    #3
    Well, I tried jumping the relay with a stripped piece of wire inbetween 6 an 7, but all she did was making a small "click". /:
    '84 Z31 Turbo
    '85 Z31 N/A parting out..
  • Rhoads91
    Rhoads91
    Member
    • 58

    #4
    Not trying to sound like an ass, but is your battery dead? I did the swap on a 84T about 3 weeks ago at school and someone "accidentally" turned on my parking lights one day when the battery was hooked up when we left for the day. Went through about an hour of troubleshooting before i realized it just couldn't crank over the motor (voltage gauge is FUBAR'd)

    Other than that, the only things that would stop it from starting is the wire for the starter that has a spade connector, or the jumper isn't actually on pins 6 and 7. The pins themselves don't line up with the picture on the top, but its numbered on the bottom of the relay.

    Edit: I think there's also a timed lockout or something if you keep trying to start the car in a gear other than park or neutral, so it could just be that. I'm not sure if bypassing the inhibitor would mean you still have to wait if its already locked you out, but i cant see it resetting it.
    1986 Grand National: 2800RPM stall converter, Shift Kit, 275/50R15 MT Drag Radials, Dutt Neck IC, Progressive Methanol Injection, 60MM DBB Turbo, 3inch DP through a 2.5inch muffled dual catback that's STOCK QUIET, 42.5lb injectors, Hotwired Walbro 255. Tuned for 25psi, and Daily Driven.
    1987 Z31: That's for me to know, and you to find out. Eventually.
  • Nathan18
    Nathan18
    Senior Member
    • 126

    #5
    I'm pretty sure the battery isn't dead (even after the "click", to you can still hear the fuel pump. Or does the even matter?)

    I have the wire jumping the two middle connections, so I believe thats right. Also, this is only third time trying to crank it, so it shouldn't be locked out.
    '84 Z31 Turbo
    '85 Z31 N/A parting out..
  • Rhoads91
    Rhoads91
    Member
    • 58

    #6
    Its not the two middle connections. On the bottom of the relay it has the pole numbers. I think its the bottom right and the bottom center if your looking down at the relay box from the passenger fender. But I know its not the two middle ones.
    1986 Grand National: 2800RPM stall converter, Shift Kit, 275/50R15 MT Drag Radials, Dutt Neck IC, Progressive Methanol Injection, 60MM DBB Turbo, 3inch DP through a 2.5inch muffled dual catback that's STOCK QUIET, 42.5lb injectors, Hotwired Walbro 255. Tuned for 25psi, and Daily Driven.
    1987 Z31: That's for me to know, and you to find out. Eventually.
  • Nathan18
    Nathan18
    Senior Member
    • 126

    #7
    Actually, it was the drivers side middle, and the bottem passenger side.

    Still no start. I also just realized it'll shift without the clutch being pushed in, could that be part of the problem or what? Are the pedels just not adjusted correctly?
    '84 Z31 Turbo
    '85 Z31 N/A parting out..
  • Nathan18
    Nathan18
    Senior Member
    • 126

    #8
    Actually, it was the drivers side middle, and the bottem passenger side.

    Still no start. I also just realized it'll shift without the clutch being pushed in, could that be part of the problem or what? Are the pedels just not adjusted correctly?
    '84 Z31 Turbo
    '85 Z31 N/A parting out..
  • Rhoads91
    Rhoads91
    Member
    • 58

    #9
    Ill run out and get a picture of my jumper and the pins that its in.

    As far as the shifting and such, if the cars not running you shouldn't need the clutch to shift. If you NEED to push in the clutch you've got problems somewhere. You can shift the car without the clutch with the engine running too as long as you rev-match, but if your a little off it grinds like…well, like you didn't push in the clutch. Lol.
    1986 Grand National: 2800RPM stall converter, Shift Kit, 275/50R15 MT Drag Radials, Dutt Neck IC, Progressive Methanol Injection, 60MM DBB Turbo, 3inch DP through a 2.5inch muffled dual catback that's STOCK QUIET, 42.5lb injectors, Hotwired Walbro 255. Tuned for 25psi, and Daily Driven.
    1987 Z31: That's for me to know, and you to find out. Eventually.
  • Nathan18
    Nathan18
    Senior Member
    • 126

    #10
    Ah, well I didn't know that! Its kinda neat to know that to be honest, amd one day, Ima have to try that. I'm sure it takes some pratice though (like anything else I suppose.)

    And thank you so much for your help man, I really appreciate it
    I'm also trying to remember if the gears were this close, it doesn't feel..right for.some reason. Am I just being paranoid?

    I did have to take the shift lever out, to.get.the tranny in. There isn't a change I actually did that wrong, is it? O.o Im pretty sure I didn't though. LOL. You never know though. :banghead
    '84 Z31 Turbo
    '85 Z31 N/A parting out..
  • Rhoads91
    Rhoads91
    Member
    • 58

    #11
    Its no problem. I'm bored at home since the woman is out with her family anyways. I'm still trying to get a pic, but my phones the only camera I have and it wont send it to photobucket for some reason, but it might just be the storm.

    As far as the shifter itself, the only thing that's really possible to mess up with it is that little nylon(?) bushing in the cup. If you don't have it there's just some extra play that's really annoying when you drive. Other than that its just the interrior peice, the rubber one that seals it, and the 4 bolts.
    1986 Grand National: 2800RPM stall converter, Shift Kit, 275/50R15 MT Drag Radials, Dutt Neck IC, Progressive Methanol Injection, 60MM DBB Turbo, 3inch DP through a 2.5inch muffled dual catback that's STOCK QUIET, 42.5lb injectors, Hotwired Walbro 255. Tuned for 25psi, and Daily Driven.
    1987 Z31: That's for me to know, and you to find out. Eventually.
  • Rhoads91
    Rhoads91
    Member
    • 58

    #12


    Cell phone cameras don't work too well in the dark, but you can kinda see. Those are pins 6 and 7. If that's how your jumper is and it still wont crank I'd personally check the starter wires first. There's only two, but the little one can get pulled off and the starter wont work. Or if it doesn't clip in all the way it will fall off and you'll be at Walmart playing with your jumper wire like a fool for 5 minutes or so.

    Mods: For some reason I cant upload pics from my computer to the internet, so I cant re-size that monstrosity of a cell phone picture. If one of you doesn't mind helping, Id appreciate it.
    1986 Grand National: 2800RPM stall converter, Shift Kit, 275/50R15 MT Drag Radials, Dutt Neck IC, Progressive Methanol Injection, 60MM DBB Turbo, 3inch DP through a 2.5inch muffled dual catback that's STOCK QUIET, 42.5lb injectors, Hotwired Walbro 255. Tuned for 25psi, and Daily Driven.
    1987 Z31: That's for me to know, and you to find out. Eventually.
  • Nathan18
    Nathan18
    Senior Member
    • 126

    #13
    You are the man! She started right on up!

    Hopefully, if someone else ever has the same problem, they now have a solution


    Now, how do I fix the reverse switch? XD can I just plug in the harness from the automatic. (They do match)

    Again man, thanks!
    '84 Z31 Turbo
    '85 Z31 N/A parting out..
  • Rhoads91
    Rhoads91
    Member
    • 58

    #14
    Glad to help man.

    The reverse switch is 2 of the wires from that same 4 pin connector getting connected to one of the 2 wire connectors n the tranny (I'm assuming you swapped in a T5?). Which connector, I have no freakin' clue because I didn't do it yet. But I know that polarity doesn't matter because one wire is ground, ones power, and the tranny just completes the circuit when its put into reverse.
    1986 Grand National: 2800RPM stall converter, Shift Kit, 275/50R15 MT Drag Radials, Dutt Neck IC, Progressive Methanol Injection, 60MM DBB Turbo, 3inch DP through a 2.5inch muffled dual catback that's STOCK QUIET, 42.5lb injectors, Hotwired Walbro 255. Tuned for 25psi, and Daily Driven.
    1987 Z31: That's for me to know, and you to find out. Eventually.
  • Nathan18
    Nathan18
    Senior Member
    • 126

    #15
    That's what I was worried about, I didn't want to hook ome up wrong then blow something up. Lmao

    Now , I just have to finish my exhuast so it doesn't sound like a friggen motorcycle. XD
    '84 Z31 Turbo
    '85 Z31 N/A parting out..