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Tips for Rebuilding the FS5R30A

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  • Tips for Rebuilding the FS5R30A

    I rebuilt a broken 30A transmission this weekend, thought I would share a few things.

    First of all, here are some helpful links:



    ^IDK how to link that. Search "Manual Transmission service" and download the .pdf. This is an amazing resource for rebuilding this transmission. I believe its the training modules provided to Nissan service Techs.

    *The FSM is actually pretty good also, so be sure to have all three of these references at hand during rebuild.

    Special tools needed:
    *Snap ring pliers for external rings
    *Snap ring pliers for "C-rings"
    *Several sizes of bearing splitters. Get the kinds with threaded holes so you can attach a puller to them
    *long threaded rod to go between bearing splitter and puller
    *A wide assortment of pullers. 1 small 3 jaw, medium and large 2 jaw, large 3 jaw. You also need a really long 2 jaw, like 18" or so. I ended up making some "extensions" for a two jaw puller.
    *Piece of ~1" steel round stock. Can't remember exact length (~12"), but this helps you press both shafts out at once. Get like 18" and then cut it down.
    *Hydraulic press

    Here are some examples of the stuff were talking about: ... puller.jpg

    Anyways after getting it out of the case, you clamp it in the vice and start working from the back end. Follow the instructions and using a wide assortment of pullers (you really need a wide variety of crazy ones, long and such), you just pull it all apart. Label the stuff in bags because its easy to get disorganized. Don't lose the steel balls, easy ones to misplace are on speedo drive, reverse idler, and first gear washer. I think they are 5/32" if you lose em (check
    Check out the space shuttle puller extenders left of the vice:

    Once you finish pulling the rear components off, its time to press the shafts out. This is where you need a press and a length of steel bar, or tube. Make sure you put something under the press to catch the shafts when they press out. They are heavy. I used a cardboard box and it punched straight through and smacked the floor.

    Now replace whatever needs replacing. Synchros, bearings, broken gears, etc. In my case, the input and counter shaft had broken gears. The bearings all looked good. I cleaned everything really well in a mineral spirits parts washer before re-assembly.

    For re-assembly, press the counter, main, and input shafts back into the midplate. Now your ready to press all the rear components back on. This is tricky because the FSM instructs you to use a pipe and hammer. There are like 8 different things you need to press on, so you will need all kinds of different sized pipes, plus its a ton of work, hammering it all together and trying not to break it. For a few of them you would need to get creative with your pullers, using them as "extenders". Reading the tech service manual above I found a pretty handy tip. Heat all the press fit components to 425F on a hotplate or oven. I did this and it was awesome. Instead of 20mins of hammering to press one thing on, everything literally just slips on. Hold it for a minute and it cools rock solid. I highly recommend doing this. You will save hours.

    Thats all I have for now. I'm waiting on some gaskets, then its back into the case.
    "produce second."

  • #2
    thats sweet. thanks for the info.

    Silver 86T 3" turbo back Cm exhaust ST Springs / Tokiko Blues
    87-89 turbo front hubs z32 brakes in front Z32 Master Cylinder
    Autometer boost gauge a-pillar pod, autometer oil temp and pressure.
    5zigen FN01R-C FRONT 17x8.5 245/45 REAR 17x10 285/40 rubber Kumho ECSTA ASX
    Turbo XS BC, EGRblocked off, 5% limo tint


    • #3
      excellent info, thanks Mike! I've got 2 sitting around which I'm too chicken shit to try to rebuild...might give it a go now


      • #4
        If I could rate this topic, I would give it 5/5 stars.
        It is not recommended to confirm proper installation by driving into walls or other barriers as this could cause personal injury or damage to the vehicle.


        • #5
          just going to stick this here so 30A rebuild info is all in one thread. Mike feel free to shitcan this post if you want your thread to be your glory alone.

          MrwassmanNA2T wrote: Hey Guys,

          The local transmission shop here ordered me a bearing set for $175. After pulling apart the transmission and inspecting the syncronizers, 5th seemed to be the only one that was worn out. It is double cone and the two syncro rings were $17.50 a piece.

          I made the mistake of listening to the asshole at the shop tell me not to replace all the syncros while it was apart, so it is my opinion to DO THEM ALL.

          Really just a matter of having the "right" tools, and keeping everything in order. The Rebuild manual sucked a little.
          Tools used:
          Copper pipe (slightly modified :-) )
          Snap-ring pliers
          Bearing Remover
          Saw horses
          Nissan has a Page of special rebuild tools I bet would have made the job 5 X easier.

          The king daddy of the Z31 manual transmissions is the FS5R30A. This transmission is the same design internally as the transmission used in the Z32 300ZX models.
          New Bearings, 5th gear syncro, and a bunch of freaking time/ingenuity. Here are progress and final pictures. Just need money for a clutch and flywheel.
          Was very surpised there are only 3 roll pins for the whole trans, My Dads truck seemed like it had 10.

          Everything was black and nasty. Inside and out.

          Made a Fixture to resist welding warpage.

          A Little propane Flame is all it takes.


          A little soakage with 'Engine Brite' engine degreaser and about 6 Q-Tips per crevice gets the perma gunk out that the rip off $20 dollar hot tank job didn't.


          • #6
            ^Thanks for posting that.

            Forgot to mention that seems to be the place to get bearings and synchros.

            I also found this website that lists the bearings by trade size and name. That way you can just go down to your local industrial supplier and order them (much cheaper than buying a kit specific to FS5R30A).
   ... &Itemid=24

            I will post it here for reference in case the site goes down:

            32203-C8017 - 6308ZNR-C3 - Ball Bearing 40x90x23 (Snap Ring)
            - TM308-A-5NR-C3 NTN40x90x23 (Same as above) Input & centermain shaft bearing
            32272-01G00 - KMJ3038, but one box had NTN K32x38x26 needle roller bearingn (HL-KMJ30x38x26.3x2)?
            32264-21P00 - Yet to identify ?42x48x37.5 split cage (at this point genuine only)
            32264-01G00 - K48x53x37.5ZW NTN / BN504806 NSK 48x53x37
            32203-01G00 - 62/32-C3 Ball Bearing 32x65x17 Main shaft rear
            32248-01G00 - BN504105 NSK 41x46x22 - Needle Roller
            32219-01G10 - NTN 7E-HR0711 or 7E-HR0724 / NSK DB503403A - 34x56x17 drawn cup needle roller
            32224-01G00 - countershaft thrust bearing AXK4565 NTN 45x60x3mm
            32350-01G60 - 34x39x36 needle roller (Split cage) (still unidentified yet) (at this point genuine only)
            32225-01G00 - Roller thrust (Yet to bemeasured)
            32219-E9020 - 63/22-C3 Ball Bearing 22x56x16 Counter shaft rear
            32272-21P20 - FWF232824 NSK (original 23x28x24.5)

            32203-31G00 - FJL-3220 NSK HMK3220 NTN Drawn Cup Needle Roller 32x42x20, Main shaft Rear, typically 4WD box

            I didn't replace any bearings or synchros. This trans had apparently ~60k on it when it broke (Jason84na2t launch on slicks). The synchros looked near new, and none of the bearings seemed bad. I probably should have used new bearings...I guess I cheaped out.
            "produce second."


            • #7
              30a goolldddmmiinneee. Great thread boys.

              1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
              1990 jetta vr6'd


              • #8
                Yeah, great stuff and a lot of work just to get all the pics and verbage posted.

                Thanks guys !!!!


                • #9
                  Bumping for a follow. Great info
                  86 Black Turbo 5spd
                  The Fallen:
                  84 red n/a auto Slicktop, 86 Black 2+2 n/a 5spd
                  Parting Currently:
                  86 White Turbo 5spd, 88 n/a 5spd, 84 AE, 88 Shiro #64
                  Garage Sale


                  • #10
                    Any tips on removing the front cover in the bellhousing, can't seem to get the gasket to crack and there ain't a whole lot of room to work inside there!

                    Edit: Figured that out, :d


                    • #11
                      Thanks mike! I need to rebuild my trans, 3rd grinds super easy and 2nd hates life if you go 3rd->2nd. My input shaft makes lots of noise too.

                      I will be using this some time this winter...

                      splatter fake blood on fubar'd quarter and roll out.

                      pedestrians=mobile clipping points -Benedict on PurePontiackid's 280zx


                      • #12
                        What needs to be replaced if it won't go into 4th gear when the revs are high or it goes in but grinds? Normal driving it shifts fine without grinding.

                        What else should be replaced since it's all apart?

                        More or less what's the cost of the above needed parts?
                        Shiro #443


                        • #13
                          Funny that someone posted the post from MrwassmanNA2T because i have that car now and the only synchro that was replaced (5th gear) was the only gear that would grind and one day driving home I lost 2nd 4th and reverse the car is sitting on a lift right now with the trans out. So something wasnt done correctly
                          4/87 Red turbo (DD Until the 84 is done)
                          86 NA Long gone
                          1/87 White turbo (parted out)
                          84 Turbo Vg33 holset HX35
                          85 Turbo (Sold)
                          93 Q45 Sold


                          • #14
                            87TurboZ wrote: Funny that someone posted the post from MrwassmanNA2T because i have that car now and the only synchro that was replaced (5th gear) was the only gear that would grind and one day driving home I lost 2nd 4th and reverse the car is sitting on a lift right now with the trans out. So something wasnt done correctly
                            or maybe something else broke. like the shift fork. which wouldn't be his fault if it just failed. that kinda stuff happens. i wouldnt replace the forks either. there's no reason unless they're garbage.

                            i would, however- have them cleaned and then magnafluxed to check for cracks. but not everyone has access to that.


                            • #15

                              Rebuild kits, parts available separately, seals, gaskets, synchros etc...