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The last two pilot bushings I have bought from napa have not fit my 30A input shaft, or of my clutch alignment tool (which I have used on several other pilot bushing installs)
They all measure around .610â ID, and the trans input shaft is around .615â OD.
Last time I âfitâ the bushing by hammering a spare trans input shaft into it. That worked well and I had no problems, but I scrapped the spare input shaft recently. This time I am using a .616â reamer, turning by hand.
Have you ever seen this? I keep thinking I am screwing them up during install. I always forget to check if they fit prior to install, I just jam them in and then find they are too small.
My install procedure is coat with grease, lightly tap into crank with 15mm socket."produce first.talk second." -
I've always had to sand the opening a little bit with 320grit paper to get them to slide on.
I don't ever recall having to widen the entire ID- but I don't see it as a problem (if doing it before you install it, obviously).
I have had to sand the opening due to a bit of deformation from hammering them in (also with a 15mm long socket).
I think I used a round file and just twirled it around the edges once when I deformed one pretty bad, just to remove any ridges I made from pounding on it.
believe it or not, lowes carries pilot bushings for our cars (in bronze, as OEM).
so if you mess up, you can take a trip there and find the one you need for about 3 bucks in the "project" bin at the hardware/fastener slide out drawers. -
I suggest just getting the right bushing, what happens if you have to replace it next time and it's too loose? -
No, you have misunderstood. Not reaming or sanding the crank or the trans. Reaming the ID of the bronze pilot bushing.
..Probably deformation from my install. Or this particular brand of pilot bushing is slightly small."produce first.talk second." -
go for it and sand the ID a bit. there shouldn't be a problem. it could just be that the bushing is in fact for a KA24 version of the F5W71C trans, and maybe the OD of the shaft spigot is just a touch smaller. The OD of almost all nissan crank bushing holes are identical. If you really want, you could just get a roller bearing.
http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Genuine-O … 32133.html
if you want, i can find the actual SKF part number, and you can order it from a bearing supplier for about 5 bucks. -
Absolutely! I laughed when I saw a nissan site selling them for $45 or something sillyCareless wrote: if you want, i can find the actual SKF part number, and you can order it from a bearing supplier for about 5 bucks. -
actually it's an NSK number, but I'm having trouble finding the folder that I put that info into :-/ -
I had the same issue once, but it was so long ago, i can't remember which auto parts store I got the bushing from.
It installed in crank fine, and I found that my pilot tool wouldn't go in…
I removed the bushing and tried to slide it on the trans inputshaft and it wouldn't go. It was real close… so I gave it a little tap and it cracked in half.
Obviously the wrong size, so I can say that happens. -
I bought a new one from nissan for like $3 or something with a local account i use to have access to. I remember when doing my auto to manual swap it was a little tight. Alignment tool fit just barely and I had to slowly go around the bellhousing tightening down each bolt so the case would push in and sit flush on the engine. No problems yet and its been on there for a year or so with a few thousand miles of use.Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)
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