87-88 2+2 Turbo manual Trans..
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KILLDOZERJunior Member
- 11
87-88 2+2 Turbo manual Trans..
Hi Guys, first post
For the last 10 years I have had to drive "practical" vehicles, for several reasons of which I will spare you. Now, My kids can climb in and out of a 2 door on their own, and are almost old enough to stay home by themselves. So I have been researching a "fun" car again for daily driving, and semi regular track(1320) duties.
My wish list is as follows:
RWD
Low 11 second ET's on DR's
Mid 120 mph traps on DR's
No assured driveline destruction at this level
4 seats
30 MPG Hwy
Sounds good
Looks decent
Reletively rust resistant
Reasonable insurance
Ideally 1987 or older (emissions exempt in Ontario), but not so necessary on factory turbo car.
Cheap
**A car that can achieve as much as the above as possible without having it up on jack stands getting modded more than on the road driving**
I realize while the above is perfectly doable, but it can not had in a factory delivered vehicle given all the requirements above without major and or expensive modifications. My focus has been on older lightweight RWD vehicles, but in almost every case; I would end up looking at engine, transmission, and sometimes rear end swaps - and almost always these components would be from a manufacturer other than that which made the chassis being considered.
The best I've come up with so far: A thoroughly deboned 2300lb 1G RX7, with a mild 450 WHP stock cam/intake/head 4G63/64-T swap utilizing a T2 RX7/Supra Transmission, and factory GSLE live axle. Put in JDM/Aussie rear seats and just about every requirement is filled with the exception of sounding good. If I stretch some the rules a little it could be a 10 second DD, and if E85 were available where I live - it could be a 9 second DD if I throw out the cheap part
Obviously that last requirement kills this one for now as this sceanario is a full blown project vehicle.
So now I am researching the Z31, They're heavy, somewhat ugly, sound bad, won't get 30MPG, but for everything else, seems to have what it takes given some OEM bolt on parts swapping. So I am trying to get a handle on the easiest Z31 route to a "fun" 2+2 DD.
I need a 2+2, a manual, and Turbo car. I understand that the 2+2 turbo is available in Canada, and several have turned up for sale at some great prices - BUT, all of them are auto. I understand the following:
All z31's have the R200 diff, and the only difference is gear ratio (any of the OEM gear ratios are fine for me), and if it is open or LSD.
The 87-88 Turbo's all have the LSD (Auto's as well?)
Now, I don't think I will find an OEM 87-88 turbo 2+2 with a manual, so I am in for a auto to manual swap. It appears that the 87-88 30A trans is the way to go, and it seems to be a direct bolt in, except for the driveshaft. I also understand that this driveshaft will 99% be custom, unless Nissan actually did sell an 87-88 2+2 30A manual trans'd turbo Z31 - if this is the case - I would see about getting it from Nissan, otherwise custom.
So, I get the 87-88 turbo 2+2 auto, swap to 30A, make custom driveshaft, and I think that this car would then encoumpass most of the strongest OEM driveline components avaiable - 30A, good drive shaft (ie custom), tough R200 LSD diff, turbo axles, as well as all the other turbo bells and whistles.
I guess other than a critique of the above, I am still unsure about:
Did 87-88 turbo auto's come with LSD?
Is there any issues with running an Auto ECU with a standard trans?
Let me know anything I've missed
Thanks! -
reddzxSenior Citizen
- 6440
As a former Canadian 2+2 Turbo owner, I can tell you that none of them came with a 5 speed, only 88-89 Canadian 2+2 turbo's had the LSD.
1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
1991 Hard-body 2WD
http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215 -
KILLDOZERJunior Member
- 11
reddzx wrote: As a former Canadian 2+2 Turbo owner, I can tell you that none of them came with a 5 speed, only 88-89 Canadian 2+2 turbo's had the LSD.
I'd probably go for the '87 and do the swap - doesn't look look any worse than swapping out a live axle… -
G-EJunior Member
- 6320
I'm in ontario and that was my choice too… except my 87 2+2 is turning into a racecar, but I know of a few 2+2 non-turbos in private hands, doesn't take much to rectify -
z-flashSenior Member
- 423
Best sounding z31 (with a vg30) Milo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoveZwM8RV8[/video]]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbG9zRLke7o&feature=player_detailpage[/video]] … detailpage
As far as drag racing, the stub axles will usually be the first thing to go, as noted by several members on here. -
KILLDOZERJunior Member
- 11
G-E wrote: I'm in ontario and that was my choice too… except my 87 2+2 is turning into a racecar, but I know of a few 2+2 non-turbos in private hands, doesn't take much to rectify
Heh, you woke up one morning, and realized your commuter car had morphed into a strip machine ? I'll be honest and state that I am a Mustang guy through and through. I realized a long time ago that nothing will beat a well set up fox coupe dollar for dollar. My last two went from street car to "race-car" in less than 2 years because they were so cheap to mod. I still have the old school 11:1, flat tappet, 28oz, 306 (with a cheater plate under the 750 :twisted out of my 84GT - 8 years after I started parting it out. The N20 bottle still has some vintage Nitrous in it too . The engine is a museum peice now - an unmolested era-specific example of how 4 eye foxes went fast in the late 80's, early 90's. I'm now too old to drive a no ps or ac, won't idle smooth at 1000+ rpm, smog patrol bait, OPP bait, Sonoco 94 octane dependent, Draglite sporting, top fueler sounding, ride like a cement truck ol 4 eye coupe. Know anyone that wants to buy a set of pro ported '69 351W heads :lol: ? -
KILLDOZERJunior Member
- 11
z-flash wrote: Best sounding z31 (with a vg30) Milo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoveZwM8RV8[/video]]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbG9zRLke7o&feature=player_detailpage[/video]] … detailpage
As far as drag racing, the stub axles will usually be the first thing to go, as noted by several members on here.
I noted the stub breakage, but this seems to happen at a pretty high HP level - higher than I'll be going. I would not be running slicks or be trying to cut 1.5 60's, if I ET in the 11's at 135 MPH - that's just fine by me .