Staked in U-joint, tips/help

  • east0352
    east0352
    Senior Member
    • 149

    Staked in U-joint, tips/help

    I just started with my first attempt at changing my U/joints on my drive shaft and found that when I pressed the joint through to its furthest point it still is not enough to get the first cup out. I've tried using a set of my biggest vice-grips without success. I was wandering if anyone has replaced their staked-in joints and had the cross-shoulder of the joint to obstruct them from being able to fully press out the joint. I will probably end up taking the whole assembly to the local machine shop but would like to save my money And I was hoping for a few tips or methods from members that have already accomplished this.
    Typical Red 1987 Z31 Jan.87.
    In process of NA2T Conversion

    87 NA Build
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    #2
    if youre replacing them why not just hammer it to hell or cut it out?
  • i r teh noobz
    i r teh noobz
    Senior Member
    • 1046

    #3
    Torches are the only tool I use for U-joint removal. Melt the cross out and hammer away.

    I'm not sure of the Z31 joints, but sometimes the cups have a plastic retainer. Try heating the cup to melt the insides, then pull with pliers.
    5.3 LSx Z31
  • Axel kain
    Axel kain
    Moderator
    • 1221

    #4
    they are considered -non serviceable- but it sounds like you need to either hammer/ press the other way to get the other cup closer to being out, then remove the cross, and get the cups out themselves.
    Damn dirty angels....these cars!

    Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
    Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
    sigpic
  • TWA88T
    TWA88T
    Member
    • 84

    #5
    lot of cussing and hacksawing to cut the old one out… hammer the cups through..
    Who needs new car's, Nissan had it right 30 years ago!!!
  • east0352
    east0352
    Senior Member
    • 149

    #6
    Okay, thanks. I was worried about bending the end of the shaft where the u-joints get pressed in. I've never had one that was too short to press out before and being in Germany, it's hard to get parts to replace anything I break on accident. I miss my shop in the states. I wouldn't have this issue.


    The u-joints i received are the wrong size. According to Rockford drive-line's application sheet, I needed the 430-11A u-joint specified for Nissan 300zx (exc. twin turbo) 1984-1989. I know the "exc twin turbo" is wrong, but they labeled all the 300zx's as exc twin turbo or twin turbo. I told them about this when trying to get the correct parts sent just now. It looks as though the T-5 trans uses the smaller cup for the u-joint (430-11A) and the NA and 87+ Turbo uses the same size U-joint (430-12).

    430-11A: Bearing Diameter= .947" Inside lock-up=1.641" and is listed as fitting Nissan 300ZX (Exc. Twin Turbo) …1984-89

    430-12: Bearing Dia.= .972 Inside lock-up= 1.641" and is listed as fitting
    Nissan 300ZX (Exc. Twin Turbo) …1990-96
    Nissan 300ZX (Twin Turbo) ...........1987-89
    Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 (Rear) ........1991-95
    Nissan Pickup 4x4 (Rear) ..............1991-93
    Nissan Pickup 2WD 4 cyl. .............1990-94

    430-12A Bearing Dia.= 1.098" and Inside Lock-up=1.995" and is listed as fitting Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo 90-96

    What I believe is that the T-5 Transmission from the 84-86 model Z31 should use the 430-11A, and the other Z31's regardless of being NA or Turbo would use the 430-12. When I made my measurements on my drive-shaft and U-joint I removed I got: Bearing Diameter= 24.665 mm and converted to inches is 0.971063. With my inside lock-up measuring 41.6814mm converting to 1.641"

    I'm hoping some guru's are out there with the knowledge or parts lying around to measure so we can confirm my suspicions. I would like to get Rockford's ordering info corrected for those of you looking to replace your u-joints in the future.
    Typical Red 1987 Z31 Jan.87.
    In process of NA2T Conversion

    87 NA Build