PSA: Staked in U-joint install with kit from Rockford Driveline

  • Z_Karma
    Z_Karma
    Administrator
    • 3318

    PSA: Staked in U-joint install with kit from Rockford Driveline

    Instead of buying a new driveshaft for SS820, I thought i'd give the staked in replacement bearings from Rockford Driveline.
    Trying to save monies since the 84T needs new tires.

    I had attempted this a few years ago in my garage with the driveshaft from my 84T and fucked it up on the first bearing.

    After watching these how to videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis…823E9CF526ED33 and access to my shop at work
    I thought it would be pretty straightforward.

    I quickly rediscovered an issue i had forgotten from the first attempt.

    The area of the yoke, behind the bearings has a bevel to it that impedes the snap ring from being rotated around to give you the most
    contact area. Otherwise, just snapping the ring from the front gives you 10mm of contact area on both sides of the bearing.



    Area that needs to be removed for clearance. If you do this without the bearings installed, a dremel disc can remove just the material in the middle
    where the snap ring will rest.





    Luckily i only installed 2 of the bearings. Rather than removing them and risk damage, i'm removing the material with a file and a sawzall blate
    under a microscope on my assembly bench. It's penance for being such a dumbass for not checking clearances first.



    One down, other side to go. This took ~45minutes of filing, checking clearance, filing some more…



    Since i have to remove the same amount of material from each side, it shouldn't cause any significant balance issue..i hope. fingers crossed.


    84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo
  • Z_Karma
    Z_Karma
    Administrator
    • 3318

    #2
    Much easier with a Dremel…and stereoscope, #analretentive



    84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo
  • Tempast
    Tempast
    Senior Member
    • 133

    #3
    I read that as anal-retentive. Good job with the driveshaft though, looks like a pain in the ass.
    1986 300ZX factory Turbo 2+2 5 speed swap. 1985 Toyota MR2. Floor boards gone. Good fabrication practice.
  • reddzx
    reddzx
    Senior Citizen
    • 6440

    #4
    A pain in the ass maybe but a new driveshaft is around $300.



    1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
    1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
    1991 Hard-body 2WD

    http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215
  • Z_Karma
    Z_Karma
    Administrator
    • 3318

    #5
    Yeah, i compared prices from a few sources and they were all above 300 for a steel replacement.
    An aluminum driveshaft with servicable u-joints was ~370 iirc. I took notes but lost them.

    It's a pain only if you have to file the bevel AFTER the bearings are installed. I came in to work today (saturday)
    and knocked out installing the last of the 4 of the bearings in under 30min. It also helps when i can bang on stuff when i'm the
    only one here. My model shop is a converted open area and there are admin offices/engineers on the other side of the
    wall.



    Cleaned up and given a coat of self-etch primer before assembly. We'll see how well it works.


    84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo
  • Augustus Maximus
    Augustus Maximus
    Senior Member
    • 1739

    #6

    Waiting on u joints which I ended up buying twice, so I have a set of 430-11 which I have no use for. Guess I'll throw them up on eBay.
    Cha iro

    enjoy building it yourself.
    if it fails, fuck it.
    at least you gave it a whirl.
  • Augustus Maximus
    Augustus Maximus
    Senior Member
    • 1739

    #7

    Done. Needs paint.
    Cha iro

    enjoy building it yourself.
    if it fails, fuck it.
    at least you gave it a whirl.