flywheel threads in crank stripping out?


  • #16
    Fsm page 29 in EM section shows it. It also states in the auto to manual swap to keep the drive plate. On courtesy nissans page under piston crankshaft and flywheel its part code 12333 but that shows in a grouping for auto trans. It doesn't specify in the Fsm however.

  • #17
    So tomorrow I have to go open the shop for another tech to come in to finish some work on an ALL-MIGHTY northstar engine in a Caddilac so I will then take the drive plate (plate, crankshaft to converter as it is referred to as by nissan) and see what I run in to. The plate did have me curious but when I read both the write up for auto to manual swap and seen it in the fsm, it seemed it was needed. Looks like if it isn't, the write up needs to be edited for being incorrect about needing this part. Will see in the AM though. I have some medium duty thread locker waiting for me as well as all of the OE bolts. The bolts I was able to pick up from Lowes were grade 8.8 I believe, so I hope to avoid having to use them. If I can get the OE bolts to thread and tighten I will feel much more comfortable. If anyone has any input on the topic it is all still appreciated.

  • #18
    Since they are stripped, I would re-tap them larger, M12x1.25 is the safest, then you can use KA24 bolts, and reaming your flywheel holes should be cake for any machine shop....

  • #19
    Nah, I'd swap cranks and get the correct bolts while I was at it. VG cranks are easy to find.
    Cha iro

    enjoy building it yourself.
    if it fails, fuck it.
    at least you gave it a whirl.

  • #20
    I did the same thing thing a few years ago. I found that there are 3 different lengths of flywheel bolts. Discard the bolt ring and get longer bolts. The factory M/T flywheel bolts are a lot longer than the ones you have.
    Black 1986 300zx Turbo coupe (Chuki)
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…86-Turbo-Coupe
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Pewter 1986 300zx N/A 2 Turbo 2+2 (Chuki)
    http://z31performance.com/showthread…9;s-1986-300zx

  • #21
    Yep, there should be no retainer ring on there.
    Cha iro

    enjoy building it yourself.
    if it fails, fuck it.
    at least you gave it a whirl.

  • #22
    fuck fuck fuck. pulled the engine tonight, when i removed the flywheel, a flywheel bolt was tight, it felt cross threaded, after completely removing it and the flywheel, there was a helicoil in the crank where the "cross threaded" bolt came from. im NOT going to swap a crank. i will get another engine before i do that. my question is, can i use 5 flywheel bolts for a temporary period if i do not get on it one bit?

  • #23
    I'd say yes, but locktite the others… it will cause weird harmonics, might rattle the others loose

  • #24
    thats what i thought about the balance. i will use a shit ton of loctite. the flywheel will never come off again.

  • #25
    I did pull the ring off. Was able to get the loctite'd bolts to snug up really nice for the most part. 2 might be a bit iffy but I dont feel I should have a problem. They torqued to about 65 before I felt like I should stop since they were 2 holes I previously had issues with.

  • #26
    On another vehicle I had (non turbo eclipse for a daily), I accidentally put the torque converter bushing behind the flywheel not thinking since I was swapping from a auto to manual car with the engine. I broke multiple bellhousing and bolts. I pulled that trans about once a month. Very frustrating. I realized once that a flywheel bolt had broke so extracted that. Never really felt and odd vibrations or harmonics. The only issue I had was at one point due to the stress from the bolts being torqued and the bushing being behind the flywheel, I had 5 of the 6 flywheel bolts snap. never lost the flywheel and WAS able to drive it about 8 miles to my grandfathers shop to find out it was the flywheel.