Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

ACT 6-puck after 5K miles

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • ACT 6-puck after 5K miles

    Figured I would let you see this for yourselves. This is an ACT 6-puck clutch disc with HD pressure plate that was operated for about 5K miles with a good portion of it being city driving. The wear on both the flywheel surface and the pressure plate was .0025", which was a little less than I had expected.





    This is about the same amount of wear you would encounter with 50-80K miles on a stock clutch, so it wears out the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces roughly 10 times faster. Go figure.

    This is not necessarily a problem because the disc has a less compressive marcel lining and the ACT pressure plate uses a standard single diaphragm; the wear limit for the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces is higher than with a stock clutch. In addition, as the wear continues towards the end of the "usable life" clamping load from the pressure plate (and torque capacity) actually increase. You can use the 6-puck disc over and over, by this amount of wear it won't reach the end of it's usable life until you've gone through (estimated) at least 3 pressure plates and flywheel resurfacings.

    The only irritating part is how much dirtier these clutch disc linings tend to be. You get a buildup similar to brake dust, but much nastier.




    The inside of this bellhousing was perfectly clean when I installed the transmission last.



    The reason I slipped this clutch was now obviously NOT because it was worn out. The published rated torque calacity is 530lb/ft at the crank. My car put 484tq to the wheels at 20PSI, which is over 550tq at the crank. It only slipped a couple times on race gas with 24PSI with more timing, this being an estimated 580-600tq at the crank. This means the ACT published value is indeed on the conservative side at 530lb/ft, at least 10% below the actual holding capacity.

    I would recommend this clutch as a good budget unit for anyone making 390-500rwtq. Anything below that would be better off using the street disc for both smoother engagement and better longevity of the friction surfaces. This was not a bad clutch at all, for the money I paid it performed admirably. I guess in the end the moral of the story is if you go for a 6-puck disc, just be prepared to deal with a little bit of chatter, more transmission noise (from the unsprung hub) and the lower lifespan.


  • #2
    thanks for the info! i wanna hear about the difference you experience once you put in and drive the sbc clutch .... are you going to be making more power once you put the engine back in? (you said in another post you were doing some other things not just the clutch so i gota ask )

    Comment


    • #3
      Here's the flywheel off of my brother's Z31 with a SPEC stage 3 6-puck sprung hub. It was definitely abused and I don't believe it even had 5k miles on it.



      Speaking of clutches... with the power you're putting down have you considered a multiplate clutch? OS Giken makes some for the Z31's and quite a few guys at HybridZ swear by 10,000 RPM (http://www.10000rpm.com/). They can custom make a multiplate, and surprisingly by the looks of it, are even more affordable than the OS Giken's. I'll have to double check that but I think that's the case.

      And... your hand is freaking me out. It looks like mine. :lol:

      Comment


      • #4
        To add to what Jason has already pointed out, here's a couple shots of my ACT Street Disc and Flywheel. There's about 3500 miles on the clutch and flywheel combo and you can see the clutch is dirty and that's AFTER I already wiped it down a bit.






        (Ignore the old NA flywheel)
        I too was surprised at how little my flywheel was worn. Now, I only had the street disc which I believe is rated at 440 lb tq, but I figured there would be atleast a little more wear and tear on the flywheel. I never once had any type of slip on any type of launch or under any circumstances up to this point. I wasn't pushing any crazy numbers with my last setup on just the paltry T25, but the real test will be with my 9.0:1 T3/T4 setup on the Street Disc.
        Attached Files
        Originally posted by Andrew84zx
        tell her your car is so fast it will make her panties fly off
        545 RWHP & 540 RWTQ
        VG30ET.com Member

        Comment


        • #5
          2+2turbo wrote: i wanna hear about the difference you experience once you put in and drive the sbc clutch ....
          I'll be sure to keep people informed on how it breaks in and how I like it overall. Even if their feramic sintered iron disc and SS pressure plate combo is not under-rated (at 700lb/ft) like the ACT was, then I will probably still never need anything else.

          quote="2+2turbo"]
          are you going to be making more power once you put the engine back in? (you said in another post you were doing some other things not just the clutch so i gota ask )
          Yes.

          MachZ wrote:
          Speaking of clutches... with the power you're putting down have you considered a multiplate clutch? OS Giken makes some for the Z31's and quite a few guys at HybridZ swear by 10,000 RPM (http://www.10000rpm.com/). They can custom make a multiplate, and surprisingly by the looks of it, are even more affordable than the OS Giken's. I'll have to double check that but I think that's the case.

          And... your hand is freaking me out. It looks like mine. :lol:
          I considered it and looked at the options before setting in on buying a SBC sintered iron unit:
          http://www.redz31.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=133
          the price of the multi-disc units and the fact that I already had the flywheel was the only deciding factor.

          I'm glad my hand looks like someone else's?

          Comment

          Working...
          X