HPX wiring
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300zxturboftwSenior Member
- 3709
HPX wiring
So I'm using a HPX blow through MAF and can't figure out the wiring. The connector is from an 05 ford cobra Pigtail. Colors are Red,Black,Brown,Light Blue, Grey, Grey. AZ bum posted this and I tried wiring it that way (colors are slightly different) but it's still on limp mode. Anyone know how to wire this sucker up>?
Ford-Cobra-MFA-wiring.jpgUsual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)
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nismopuAdministrator
- 2221
Lemme go take a pic of mine but just quickly looking at zbums, it seems right."Its the s12's sexy over weight step daughter, the z31" -
300zxturboftwSenior Member
- 3709
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G-EJunior Member
- 6320
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707Redz31Senior Member
- 375
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jaqattack02Senior Member
- 1185
There's info on the wiring on the Nistune site too.
http://nistune.com/docs/MAF_and_Consult_pinouts.pdfPrius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…
Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two
My 1986 Turbo Build -
300zxturboftwSenior Member
- 3709
This is what I got
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281418552406
The Pigtail is a 2005 mustang pigtail:
Mustang Pigtail to Z31 connector
Red - Black/White (power)
Black - Black (ground)
brown - black (ground)
blue - shielded black (output)
grey - not connected
grey - not connected
^Above set-up is not working. Should I be connecting the red or yellow wire from the Z31. One is the self cleaning which I know I don't need, but the other?
Z31 VG30 (2 - 7 volt)
Pin A = Calibration pos (variable resistor)
Pin B = output voltage (black shielded 2-7 volts)
Pin C = ground (black - chassis)
Pin D = ground (black - ECCS)
Pin E = battery source (12V black striped)
Pin F = self cleaning mechanism (not used with Z32 MAF)
I can always hook NIStune up and log until I have a signal from the MAF, but any direction first would be a lot easier if someone has had experience.
Edit:
seems that both wires are NOT grounds on mustang MAF. This is the issue. AZ's diagram is wrong:
Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)
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jaqattack02Senior Member
- 1185
Looks to me like Pin 3 from the Mustang harness needs to go to what was connected to Pin B on the Z31.Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…
Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two
My 1986 Turbo Build -
shromySenior Member
- 2189
^agreed. your ecu has had the maf mods done as well i suspect.Hmmm, Whats next?
Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.
84ZXT -
Axel kainModerator
- 1221
I hope you have modded the ECU board for running 0-5V instead of the factory 2-7V setup… I have the exact same setup on a friends car, with the HPX calibrated for Z32 spec.Damn dirty angels....these cars!
Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
sigpic -
300zxturboftwSenior Member
- 3709
Uhhhh.....noooo. This is new info to me. Someone spoon feed me the link to the ECU mod for MAF please.Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)
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300zxturboftwSenior Member
- 3709
This?
The hardware changes required to run a different MAF are simple, and as you have probably already socked your ECU, disconnecting these resistors should be cake (the two parallel ones and r201, I removed R201 and just cut the other two):
What did you do to keep limp mode? what new resistor/potentiometer do you place where the old resisters were? Sorry this is not my specialty.Usual Z31 suspect: Garage Queen (aka broken)
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Axel kainModerator
- 1221
^the procedure is different, depending on which ECU range youre working with.Damn dirty angels....these cars!
Current Daily Driver - 86 Turbo.
Under the cover - THE BANANA… that needs to be re-energized.
sigpic -
shromySenior Member
- 2189
the one you posted is for 88-89 iirc, may include 87 but, that is the procedure. lip mode would stay in theory, never had a maf failure after the mod or even tested it to see.Hmmm, Whats next?
Full Size Bronco, smashing shit.
84ZXT