Plugs

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  • mark86t
    mark86t
    Senior Member
    • 379
    #16
    JWT told me they have had best results with using z32 NA plugs in my car. So that's what I went with. Gapped at .28. Think I might bring them down to .25.
    378whp 445wtq
    http://mark86t.zmobiledetailing.com/…/v/Black+Hole/


    Z Mobile Detailing, Las Vegas, NV
  • Kennedy
    Kennedy
    Senior Member
    • 1158
    #17
    Jason84NA2T wrote: I don't think you can get the BCPR6E-11's anymore that are spec'd for turbo cars, but I've always run the ES-11's anyway.
    from Courtesy Parts..

    SPARK PLUG (BCPR7ES 11) - VG30 - No Longer Available
    SPARK PLUG (BCPR7E-11) - VG30T - turbo

    I'm going to make order later this month and i was going to order few plugs too.
    Pretty much every place else sels ES plugs. E are little more rare.

    I still don't know the fysical dirrerences with those plugs :roll: . Picture might help :?
    Jukka Kivinen - Europe / Finland - '88 Turbo 2+2 Targa
    Datsun Nissan Sports Cars of Finland
    http://www.z31turbo.com / http://www.z31na.com
  • simply86T
    simply86T
    Senior Member
    • 413
    #18
    [quote]Jason84NA2T wrote:
    Originally posted by Andrevas
    yeah, copper is great, but durability is a bit lacking.

    iridium I think is a good compromise if you don't want to change plugs all the time
    I've been running the same copper plugs all year so far. They were used from one of my old engines, I regapped them and installed when I put the new engine in this spring. They probably have 10K+ of hard driving on them, which is over a year for most people. So far my copper plugs have been outlasting my engines. I've heard a few reports of people using iridiums on higher HP turbo cars and having spark issues, then switching back to copper and the issues go away. This might actually just be a gapping or ignition system issue, but it could also be because of the smaller flashpoint.
    I believe iridiums are gapped at .044 out of box, and they strongly advise NOT to re-gap iridiums, so I guess that's the reason for their spark issues. And I also believe iridiums are advertised to last 60K-70K miles, so I agree that's some good compromise. (if they last as advertised )


    EDIT:
    BCPR6E-11 (v-power - $2.35)

    http://ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=bc … &x=39&y=15

    BCPR6ES-11 (traditional - $2.35)

    http://ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=bcpr6es-11

    BCPR6EIX-11 (iridium - $6.95)

    http://ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=BC … &x=62&y=14


    So, is BCPR6E-11 (v-power) suppose to be better or worse than BCPR6ES-11?
    Matte Black 86T - Sold
  • SATAN
    SATAN
    Senior Member
    • 6782
    #19
    [quote]simply86T wrote: [quote=Jason84NA2T]
    Originally posted by Andrevas
    yeah, copper is great, but durability is a bit lacking.

    iridium I think is a good compromise if you don't want to change plugs all the time
    I've been running the same copper plugs all year so far. They were used from one of my old engines, I regapped them and installed when I put the new engine in this spring. They probably have 10K+ of hard driving on them, which is over a year for most people. So far my copper plugs have been outlasting my engines. I've heard a few reports of people using iridiums on higher HP turbo cars and having spark issues, then switching back to copper and the issues go away. This might actually just be a gapping or ignition system issue, but it could also be because of the smaller flashpoint.
    I believe iridiums are gapped at .044 out of box, and they strongly advise NOT to re-gap iridiums, so I guess that's the reason for their spark issues. And I also believe iridiums are advertised to last 60K-70K miles, so I agree that's some good compromise. (if they last as advertised )


    EDIT:
    BCPR6E-11 (v-power - $2.35)

    http://ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=bc … &x=39&y=15

    BCPR6ES-11 (traditional - $2.35)

    http://ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=bcpr6es-11

    BCPR6EIX-11 (iridium - $6.95)

    http://ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=BC … &x=62&y=14


    So, is BCPR6E-11 (v-power) suppose to be better or worse than BCPR6ES-11
    Originally posted by Andrevas
    ?
    It is supposedly better for the flame kernell for the v to be there. This is supposed to help with blow out. I doubt anyone could tell the differencte though.
    85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
    04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20… underway for summertime daily driver.
  • Jason84NA2T
    Jason84NA2T
    Senior Member
    • 2909
    #20
    SATAN wrote: It is supposedly better for the flame kernell for the v to be there. This is supposed to help with blow out. I doubt anyone could tell the differencte though.
    I certainly didn't notice any difference when I tried them once I started having blowout issues. Only gapping them down helped.
  • SATAN
    SATAN
    Senior Member
    • 6782
    #21
    [quote]Jason84NA2T wrote:
    Originally posted by SATAN
    It is supposedly better for the flame kernell for the v to be there. This is supposed to help with blow out. I doubt anyone could tell the differencte though.
    I certainly didn't notice any difference when I tried them once I started having blowout issues. Only gapping them down helped.
    Well, then, you did notice a difference only the difference sucked LOL :lol:
    85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
    04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20… underway for summertime daily driver.
  • StreetFighter
    StreetFighter
    Senior Member
    • 711
    #22
    going to a colder plug will make less power, but you can add more timing so you can increase power. You want to find that happy heat range for your particul;ar setup. We run an 11 heat range on the race car, but it is 10.5:1 CR and runs 44psi on top of that using VP import (125+ octane) for fuel.
    86 hardtop shell, 93 SC300 engine, 95 soarer bellhousing, 91 supra transmission, 95 Q45 differential hubs and driver's side axle, 1992 300ZX turbo driver side axle and calipers, 2004 350Z Rotors, 87 300ZX front end/hood, 1999 Viper radiator, 1992 Mustang throttle body. Lots of glue and tape to keep it all together.
  • SATAN
    SATAN
    Senior Member
    • 6782
    #23
    StreetFighter wrote: going to a colder plug will make less power, but you can add more timing so you can increase power. You want to find that happy heat range for your particul;ar setup. We run an 11 heat range on the race car, but it is 10.5:1 CR and runs 44psi on top of that using VP import (125+ octane) for fuel.
    Hey StreetFighter, What is the hex size on that 11 heat range plug you are talking about? I'm looking for a 9 NGK heat range but can only find I think up to an 8 for the 5/8" hex. Everything else is an 11/16". You got any leeds? Do they use NGK in the race car you are talking about?

    Also, why does a colder plug make less power? I know a colder plug pulls heat out of the chamber faster but I cant imagine how that would result in less power. Got any insite on that?
    85 Z31 6.0 LSX turbo 766whp/792wtq
    04 GTO, LS6, big cam, porting, N20… underway for summertime daily driver.
  • Matt89
    Matt89
    Senior Member
    • 2380
    #24
    anybody had any luck with ngk platinums. just got some off ebay and will be trying them in a few weeks when i get done with my turbo conversion.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI … 330&rd=1,1
    Bolt on, fast, z31. You can only pick two.
    Old weaksauce numbers: 391hp/433tq

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