90 degree hose
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PulseCodeSenior Member
- 1522
90 degree hose
The 90 degree coolant connecting hose under the fuel Pressure regulator has sprung a leak.
How much am I going to cuss removing and replacing it? Is there a good order or method?
I have the AC compressor bracket removed. Thanks.Everything is Meaningless. -
GregmaticSenior Member
- 2193
removing it without taking off the timing covers is a sucky frustrating job, oh yes there will be profanity! Stock 10mm clamps are a pain but the real issue lies in putting on the new one. I typically soak the new 90 degree hose in some very hot water and lube both inside holes (insert chuckle here). This makes it a bit more pliable and easier to smoosh into place.
When I replace them during a standard timing belt job I just take a dremel and slice the rear timing cover right down the middle and slightly bend it out of the way. Makes life much easier and when you bolt the front cover on it holds it steady in place....bam!....like it never was cut
Good luck! -
drb5721Senior Member
- 289
Easiest way is to remove everything timing related. This includes rear timing cover. While you're at it, do the belt, water pump, chts and harness, and seals while in there if you haven't done so recently. However, if it's leaking, chances are your timing belt is already contaminated and should be replaced either way.
*****of course gregmatic would submit his post as I'm typing mine haha. -
floridaZSenior Member
- 2781
If the timing belt scares you, you can always remove the plenum (and if necessary, LIM) to get access. It's a bitch and a half either way. I had mine give on I95 halfway to Florida. Luckily, dealer still carries them for about $11 a pop.Feedback- viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19840
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PulseCodeSenior Member
- 1522
Yep, that's about what I thought the PIA factor might be- just lookin' at it.
I did just complete the 3.3 swap last year so, now I just need that new 90 replacement hose. Thank you all.Everything is Meaningless. -
les_joey_paulSenior Member
- 743
I did this not long ago. Removed the ac idler bracket and removed the upper rad hose/rad cap piece from the lower intake manifold. Pulled it out with the 90°hose attached. Then R & R the hose and slide it all back down with new worm type clamps.http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
My build thread (: -
PulseCodeSenior Member
- 1522
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les_joey_paulSenior Member
- 743
Your welcome. Oh btw I had to remove the fpr too. I just remembered.http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
My build thread (: -
PulseCodeSenior Member
- 1522
les_joey_paul…
That was the EASIEST way to replace that PIA hose I can possibly imagine. Since I have an aftermarket FPR, I didn't even have to remove it.
THIS is the type of tips/ tricks solutions that need to be easier to find during a search here on Z31P. Thank You again.Everything is Meaningless. -
les_joey_paulSenior Member
- 743
Originally posted by PulseCode View Postles_joey_paul…
That was the EASIEST way to replace that PIA hose I can possibly imagine. Since I have an aftermarket FPR, I didn't even have to remove it.
THIS is the type of tips/ tricks solutions that need to be easier to find during a search here on Z31P. Thank You again.http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
My build thread (: -
NissanEggSenior Member
- 5220
It can be replaced with out removing any timing belt/cover related parts. Just remove the dizzy and that frees up alot of room. If you have AC, remover the AC belt and tensioner bracket to get more room at the bottom of the hose.
I do these all the time at work on VG30 and VG33 engines. Takes about an hour if you do it the way I listed above.
1986 300ZX Turbo…sold
1990 Skyline GT-R…new money pit
2014 Juke Nismo RS 6-speed…daily