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So, I recently broke an easy out off in a spark plug bore while trying to remove a bad plug. Head had to come off. Long story short, I discovered a piston had some really bad nicks and cuts in it.
If you're not aware, I've been building this car for a while and this is yet another blow to my gut(and wallet). So I guess I'm going to go completely nuts and do a full rebuild.
I have not done a vg30 before. I was going to go with the stock heads and port/polish, Schneider 280h cams with matching valve springs, and ARP head studs. Compression ratio of around 9.0 to 9.5 I think would be good.
Now, the shortblock is where I really fall short on knowledge. I'm not a fan of eagle rods, but it appears to be the most cost effective aftermarket choice. I have no clue on pistons.
My initial parts list as follows.
1) ARP head studs from asco
2) ARP MAIN studs
3) ARP rod bolts
4) Possibly MLS head gaskets(worth it?)
5) Block and heads chemical clean and machine work(very general)
Instead of shooting for 350whp on a bone stock longblock, I guess I'll go for close to 500whp if possible.
So, if any of you have built a vg30 a time or two please give your 2 cents. I just need a bit of direction. As an example, if I shouldn't use the stock heads, what should I use? Thanks! -
It costs the same* to build a VG33 as it does a VG30. Get more displacement, better heads, and a slightly better oiling system. It can also be bored out more. Also, larger exhaust studs so there is less chance of breaking them in the future.
* You have to spend ~$300 on a jy engine.Feedback- viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19840
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I have a 3mm MLS head gasket on mine and was able to reuse it twice. Hopefully there will not be a third.
For the bottom end we used Wiseco forged pistons and shot peened rods with ARP rod bolts
Crower 280/280 cams.
And all the porting and polishing etc.
Bottom end held up to 5 years at about 400hp (conservative) and is still going. Knock on wood -
I kind of forgot about the vg33. I will check out the jy tomorrow. Might just toss a vg33 in and call it good for now. Just have to swap the crank and accessories. I will let you guys know what I do tomorrow.
And what's up with someone rating the post as not helpful? Not sure it was meant to? Kind if wierd, but hey, its the internet. -
Small update. Got a vg33 from a 98qx4. I figure the extra displacement will come in handy. Thanks everyone. I'll update my thread once it's back in the car. -
Got another question for you guys. I have spent hours trying to find some definitive information on the flywheel bolts, but I have not had any luck. Has anyone here used vg30dett flywheel bolts in a cg30e crank with success?
I would have the motor together already, but I'm still waiting on the main stud and rod bolt kit from asco. Hopefully I can figure out this flywheel bolt nonsense along the way. Otherwise I'm just going to reuse my old ones(they aren't original as I replaced them not long ago).
Thanks! -
Yes, vg30de flywheel bolts are the same for vg30e.
With that said, you might as well upgrade to ARP flywheel bolts. They are like $40.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from…-2801&_sacat=0 -
That is exactly what I wanted to hear. I could not for the life of me find a clear answer. Thank you so much amreboot! -
Yuppers. And yes, I know the above ebay link says for Mustang, but they are the same thread, pitch, and length.Originally posted by Richter888 View Post -
I figured. I own a 2001 cobra and when I saw the descriptions I laughed.
Just out of curiosity amre, do you have advice on clutches? I guess since I'm going completely insane on pretty much everything short of a built motor, I might as well upgrade. I'm researching right now, but I like peoples direct opinions. Thanks again. -
Your best bet is DXD SouthBend clutches.
So depending on your power levels or goals, you can choose accordingly.
For a stockish setup with some room to grow, I recommend a stage 2 dxd
Need vg30 build advise
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