adjusting pedal height and BMC rod???

mcx

Senior Member

Posts: 143
#1

adjusting pedal height and BMC rod???

06-15-2013, 06:03 AM

I have upgraded the front brakes on my 88 200sxSE with 300zx turbo[1988 dual piston] and a larger BMC from a 240sx[1.00" bore]…I have tried adjusting the BMC rod to get the clearance perfect a few times and its a pain in the ass removing and getting to it srod ....I have also adjusted the brake pedal rod under the dash and its much easier to adjust…my question, is it one in the same same playing with these two items??…I have never felt the brakes to be as good as they should be for the upgrades done.
NissanEgg

Senior Member

Posts: 5220
#2

06-15-2013, 12:36 PM

First off, get the pedal height in relation to the floor squared away according the FSM instructions.

Then-
Get the pedal to its natural resting position.
Loosen the locking nut for the rod.
Then adjust the rod until the clevis pin rotates freely. (Adjust in/out as needed)
Tighten the locking nut.
Pump the pedal a few times and recheck freeplay of clevis pin.
Bleed if necessary.

This applies to the clutch and brake pedals.

If you do not get the clevis pin to rotate freely, then the rod will either keep the master cylinder partially engaged and not fully release pressure, or keep the pedal partially down and not get full pedal stroke. Both scenarios are bad.

NEVER adjust to get the pedal to make it feel like you think it should or engagement point!!!

1986 300ZX Turbo…sold
1990 Skyline GT-R…new money pit
2014 Juke Nismo RS 6-speed…daily
mcx

Senior Member

Posts: 143
#3

06-16-2013, 03:35 PM

NissanEgg;335154 wrote: First off, get the pedal height in relation to the floor squared away according the FSM instructions.

Then-
Get the pedal to its natural resting position.
Loosen the locking nut for the rod.
Then adjust the rod until the clevis pin rotates freely. (Adjust in/out as needed)
Tighten the locking nut.
Pump the pedal a few times and recheck freeplay of clevis pin.
Bleed if necessary.

This applies to the clutch and brake pedals.

If you do not get the clevis pin to rotate freely, then the rod will either keep the master cylinder partially engaged and not fully release pressure, or keep the pedal partially down and not get full pedal stroke. Both scenarios are bad.

NEVER adjust to get the pedal to make it feel like you think it should or engagement point!!!

thanks Egg…i'll give that a try.
mcx

Senior Member

Posts: 143
#4

04-16-2014, 09:47 AM

I just wanted to follow up on this thread…I had to replace a power brake booster and clutch master this past week and went though the Eggs above advice on setting it all up…these brakes feel excellent now. ..only other thing I did was assemble the brake master to the brake booster off the car to check the piston rod depth between the two parts…I used some latex paint to spot mark the piston tip and assemble to see if it was touching or not..it took about five tries to get it perfect.