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So, like most Z owners experience, my T Tops leak pretty often. Normally it's very little, but there are times where I find my seat drenched and the floor beneath the seats soaked as well, which really concerns me. Sometimes when I'm driving I also get water dripping on my elbow, and it's annoying. Basically I just want to prevent water from coming as much as possible for obvious reasons. And as most of you are aware, new weather striping will cost A LOT. I just don't have the money for that and my Z is not show room condition anyway. I was wondering if anyone has used something like Flex Seal to fix leaking issues? Something along the lines of liquidized rubber? Or are there other solutions to this? I want to try a can of flex seal, but I'm worried about what will happen if I put it on my car. If anyone has any tips that would really help. Thanks guys -
FlyingT mentioned using black RTV gasket maker, which is a great idea. Obviously, you want to thoroughly clean everything first with denatured alcohol/ acetone etc. for a good bond.Everything is Meaningless. -
Flex seal is a silicone based spray. Once silicone has bonded to the porous rubber seal and fully cured, the application of more silicone
(in case the first attempt was not successful) will not adequately bond to the first layer of silicone. It's a sketchy fix at best.
In a pinch, I've successfully used silly putty near the corners. It seals, it's waterproof and comes back off (and into it's egg) when not needed.
The seals are adjustable, there are screws hidden beneath the seals that allow re positioning.
The pin latch mechanism also is adjustable, to give the t-tops more clamping force against the seals.
There are some photos here
http://xenonzcar.com/z31/t-topsealreplacement.html
and more help in the FSM.
http://xenonzcar.com/z31/reference.html
I'm not aware (or have just forgotten) of any writeups on how to adjust the seals.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Yeah I've used rtv on mine. They've been leak free for over a year.http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
My build thread (: -
Before you smear that goop all over your seals, do the card test. Put a business card in the gap where the t-top edge seal and the door rubber seal meet. If it's loose and falls out, that's where the leak is. Pull the t-top off and lay it upside down and remove the trim cover over the release handle. Peel back the rubber on the edge and look for four screws. The two on the ends have slotted holes. Loosen them and stretch the rubber and tighten screws while holding the rubber. Also use compressed air and blow out the drain holes in the t-top channel on the A and B pillars. Check them for cracked sealer around the drain hole. This can be sealed with caulk.
1988 300ZX Turbo, Shiro Special #760
1988 300ZX Turbo Automatic (wife's car)
1991 Hard-body 2WD
http://zccw.org/zccw/?page_id=1215 -
RTV is liquid rubber and you can add layers if needed. I used it to patch holes in the WS, fill in any low spots, and to "paint" the rest of the gasket with new rubber so it would be all the same color. The RTV is slightly different color. Mask off the gaskets you want to rejuvenate and clean them well.
I did mine 2.5 years ago and not a drop since.Restore it, Don't crush it. They don't make them like this anymore.
Scott
85 Turbo, original owner, restored
93 NA Babied
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My ttops don't leak, but as I'm restoring the car would like to replace the weatherstrips that wrap around the targa tops and down both sides of the door windows.
Does anyone know where I could source these New?
Cheers.Love z31's as much as I do? Check out my build: http://www.zdriver.com.au/index.php/…__80#entry2219 -
^ http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic03c
Not 100% available, but its something! Be prepared to pay up, these are not cheap!Butter (credit where credit is due): "You have this "gift" where you can make cooking a Hot Pocket seem like you need a certain wavelength microwave and involve brown mustard." -
Replacing all of the weather stripping will cost more than some have paid for the entire Z31.Restore it, Don't crush it. They don't make them like this anymore.
Scott
85 Turbo, original owner, restored
93 NA Babied
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Are you positive it's the tops and not the drains?Prius… because Pretentious wouldn't fit across the back of the car…
Cheap, Fast, Reliable - pick any two
My 1986 Turbo Build -
Mine are doing the same thing! There is a massive gap between the front of the T-top, and the end of the A-pillar/roof at the top of the window glass. I'll try Tim's method tonight and see if I can counter that gap with anything. Ugh it's fucking frustrating rolling to work and getting all wet. In fact, the water will leak onto the shoulder of my seat, onto the seat-belt, and stain shirts. One time I came into work with a giant yellow stain across my chest unknowingly. I'm sure everyone thought I had just been pissed on by a group of wild stray dogs. I'm sure they thought that.
Edit: I've also HEARD of people using vasoline to bring life back to the seals. But others claim this completely destroys the seals after a few years. Is this true?" I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar -
Petrolium based products eat rubber. I've also heard it makes the seals swell up, helping with lesser leaks.
Silly putty bro. Silly putty.Feedback- viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19840
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Yes, petroleum products will deteriorate rubber that is not formulated to handle fuel or oil.
Ever service a greasy grimy motor and find hoses that just fall apart?
It's a slow process though, the petroleum jelly also acts like a hydrophobic coating that
sheds water that would otherwise collect on the surface. On that theme, maybe some of that new
hydrophobic aerosol coating, NeverWet might help.
I've tried vaseline on my t-top seals a few years ago and they're still intact. Tim showed me his method
and i think i'll try that, since that's where mine leak, at that gap.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Just build up any gaps with Black RTV. I has the big gap and stopped the leak with $6 RTV.Restore it, Don't crush it. They don't make them like this anymore.
Scott
85 Turbo, original owner, restored
93 NA Babied
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Are you still able to remove your T Tops though? Or did you fill that fucker in haha" I spend another hour trying to rip the bolt out of the subframe, pausing every five minutes to scream and contemplate how I get myself into these situations. Two cars over, a guy urinates. I watch the steam waft off of the fresh puddle in the gravel. It merges with the blowing snow and is cut by the aerodynamic wedge of a nearby Fiero. Beautiful. Another pry and the carrier finally falls to earth. I walk out of there $80 lighter, which makes me more mad." - Brian Kolar
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