-
Hi everyone. New to the forums and recently bought a '89 NA (GLL trim) that is in pretty good condition as a first time project car.
I have been slowly going over the car and identifying things here and there that require attention, one of which being the passenger side door lock cylinder, which is stiff to turn. I am trying to remove it for cleaning/lubing, as well as to find the key code to cut new keys as my purchase only came with a spare. However, I am having trouble removing the door handle/lock assembly. I have been following the Haynes manual for removing it but cannot make too much sense of the instructions or black/white images. Has anyone had experience with this and have better instructions on how to go about removing the door lock cylinder?
Thanks.1989 300ZX NA -
Welcome to the Z31 family!
I've rebuilt my lock cylinders and used silicone grease to keep them smooth. I don't have any photos though. The handle/latch assembly is secured with 2 M6 nuts that require a 10mm socket.
IIRC, one is accessed through a opening in the panel, the other is accessed through a hole that is not much larger than the socket. The actuation rods are clipped on and the clips need to be rotated
so that they disengage the rods. once those are unclipped and the nuts are removed, the whole assembly comes out.
edit: I have to remove my inner door panels tonight for removing my mirrors, i'll see if i can get you a photo.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Thank you for the quick response. I have the door trim removed such that the water/vapor barrier is exposed and I can see the internal actuation rods you are referring to. I know that two nuts need to be removed first. However, as far as I can figure, those two nuts inside the door structure are blocked by the window, unless I am focusing on the wrong ones.
1989 300ZX NA -
I think you gotta have the window fully closed to access them, but i'll check.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Fully closed, it still partially blocks one and fully blocks the other if they are the nuts I am thinking about.1989 300ZX NA-
#5.1JGug1 commentedI am writing of my own anecdotal experience. I have no way of knowing if my '89 Z31 is like all or most of the rest out there.
1. The nuts that have to be removed to take the outside door handle with the lock cylinder are 10 mm. They cannot be removed with a typical socket, even a 1/4 inch tool. You simply cannot get the socket onto the right nut (facing the inside of the door) because of space and the glass is very slightly in the way of putting a typical socket on the left nut.
2. The window must be closed. If it is open, access is totally blocked.
3. We used a 10 mm ratchet wrench and its opposite open end wrench to get both. Interestingly, one twist made the nut finger loose. You can see the one on the left through a small hole. The one on the right has to be accessed by putting your hand into the door and feeling for it. You cannot see it.
But when that is done, you aren't finished removing the door handle/lock cylinder. There is a small Phillips head screw that you cannot access as a first step because the angle just won't allow access. However, once the two 10 mm nuts are removed, the handle is loose and you can move it enough to get a Phillips screw driver on. Once that screw is removed, the door handle will come out.
-
-
I was just messing around with the doors. Maybe my thread about another issue will help you find the nuts
https://z31performance.com/forum/z31…g-window-glass
-
So, based on your image, which I also find on Nissan's OEM Parts page, I am under the impression I need to remove the two "08911-10637" nuts first. The problem is that as far as I can tell, regardless of the position of the window (open/closed/partial), access to said nuts are blocked by the window from a direct, axial approach, with a socket for example.Originally posted by kaur View Post1989 300ZX NAComment
-
You cannot use a socket. The nuts, again, are 10 mm. We used a ratchet 10 mm and an open end 10 mm. Since we (my lock smith and I) have finally succeeded in removing the door handle and lock, I am able to promise you that it can be done. You have to remove various screws and move rods. You are almost certainly going to drop nuts and screws into the door. Use a magnet to remove them.
-
-
The one that's more to the rear of the car should be directly accessible through the hole with a longer socket. The other one was a bit trickier to access head on if I remember correctly. I used a wrench on that one. It's not the most convenient place to access anyway.Comment
-
A typical socket will NOT work. Other cars may be different but on my car the window glass is very slightly, maybe 2 mm over the nut. Therefore you cannot get a socket onto the nut. There may be specialty sockets that would work. A very short socket or a socket that has the end of it tapered would do the job.
-
-
So i verified it, but didn't grab a photo. You will have to remove the window limit stop plates and then either remove the glass or at least un bolt it from the lifting mechanism. Then upper mount for the rear track needs to be unbolted and slid forward to access one of the nuts to remove the handle.
You might be able to sneak in there with a combo wrench, but i'd just remove the glass if it were me. I did my locks over 2 years ago i guess.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Sounds like a lot of work just for the door lock cylinder…
Would you or anyone else happen to know of a simpler way? I have been following the Haynes manual (found online here: http://manuals.z31.nl/Nissan/300ZX%2…20235-251).pdf | pg 271, pg 7 of the PDF) and the instructions seem someone simple, unless it skipped a bunch of steps. I am just not terribly familiar with the car, or cars in general for that matter, to know simple work-arounds.1989 300ZX NA -
When I had to replace my door handle, I had to remove the door glass. Its actually not too hard to do, just don't drop it!Butter (credit where credit is due): "You have this "gift" where you can make cooking a Hot Pocket seem like you need a certain wavelength microwave and involve brown mustard." -
Just mark the locations of the fasteners that hold the rails and limit plates to the door skin with a sharpie so you get them back in the same spot
and they stay in alignment. Chances are that if the lock cylinder grease has evolved into whale snot, the grease in the window mechanism
could use some fresh lube as well.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Thanks for the help. I'll post an update when I get the time since it looks like it will be more work than expected. Or if I find a quicker solution.
On that note, does anyone know if the key code is stamped into the cylinder, or if it's just printed? I can peak at a four-digit number but have nothing to compare against as my car did not come with the key code sticker in the glove box.1989 300ZX NA -
It should be a X plus 4 digits for a main lock key (X _ _ _ _ ) or a Y plus 4 digits for a valet key (Y _ _ _ _ ). The numbers do match from the main lock key to valet key.
I have a lock set (PN 99810-04P28) NIB here for my AE and none of the cylinders or ignition have any markings that correspond to the codes on the keys.
It's possible that if your's was replaced sometime in the past, somebody had the foresight to mark them with the code, but i wouldn't bet on it.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
Where are you guys going to get keys re-cut, nissan dealer? I think I have the sticker, does the valet key not work on the hatch? If so then I think I only have that one and not the main key.Butter (credit where credit is due): "You have this "gift" where you can make cooking a Hot Pocket seem like you need a certain wavelength microwave and involve brown mustard."
Copyright © 2006–. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy
Comment