Replacing key ignition with toggles and push button
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drb5721Senior Member
- 289
Replacing key ignition with toggles and push button
I have looked at the FSM and have found the wires for the ignition switch and what each does. What I want to do it remove the ignition lock cylinder all together and wire in a small switch panel for the ignition switch's functions.
The 4 wire connector has pins for (B)attery,(A)ccessory,(IG)nition, (S)tarter. The B Pin is a white/blue wire. The S Pin is a yellow wire. The A Pin is white/purple. The IG Pin is black/white.
I plan to run 2 3 post toggle switches and 1 momentary push button switch. Switch 1 will control Accessory Mode. Switch 2 will control all other function of the electronics system such as fuel pump prime etc.
By the FSM, it looks like I should take the B wire and attach to the 12v source on the 1st toggle. The A wire should go to the accessory post on the toggle. TheN of course ground the 3rd post.
Switch 2 is the switch of most of my concept understanding. Usually this stuff comes easy to me but I am drawing blanks for some reason. Switch 2 should contain connections for Battery, Accessory, and Ignition per the FSM. With Accessory already being powered by switch 1, wouldn't I simply need to run another B wire to the 12v source post on the switch, run the IG wire to the Acessory post and then ground it? I know I have read PIN 9 on the ECU(could be wrong pin #) should be referenced to these points as well to avoid hard starts.
After these switches comes the push button. Flip switch 1, Flip Switch 2, Press button. Push button will have wire coming from B and Yellow.
This should avoid issues with the theft deterrent system, starter relay, clutch switch, bad ignition lock cylinder, lost keys.
I am also attaching a picture with the 3 ways I can see to wire this. Need the opinions of you experts to tell me if I am just stupid.
I would prefer a 2 rocker switch idea and then the push button to avoid and issues burning up switches.
switches.jpg -
Z_KarmaAdministrator
- 3318
Whats the reasoning for having your your accs/ign signals grounded when not energized?
Maybe i missed something
What about a sequence..
That way you can't accidentally energize the starter if your accs or ign isn't on first.
P/S: You can use this free tool to do basic schematic work
http://www.digikey.com/schemeit/
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
88sinZSenior Member
- 2019
also another free circuit tool, i haven't messed with the digikey one but i have used this one in the past - and it lets you modify values of each component
https://www.circuitlab.com/ -
drb5721Senior Member
- 289
The switches are 3 post switches. a positive, an accessory and a ground post. The ground is more for switch illumination than functionality when off.
Your scheme basically covers my 1st idea. I mainly wanted to confirm that I would not need a wire for accessory on the second switch. The accessory post will be for the ignition wire.
I would not mind being able to energize the starter with the switches not flipped as the switch will be hidden and wouldn't be able to be hit by accident. -
88sinZSenior Member
- 2019
If you wan't to go full retard about this, yes you need an ACCY toggle IGN toggle, and as ZK spoon fed you a starter hit
If you're M/T you'll also need to bypass the (N) safety switch