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The other morning I was driving, steady speed at around 2K revs, and the engine flat out died on me. This happened the night before, but when I tried to start it that time, it turned right over. When I tried it that morning, it would not turn over at all, but cranked just fine. Alternator and battery both checked fine. Since it's not a power supply issue, I assume it must be fuel, going off the intense smell of it and the backfires / plume of smoke when revving the engine.
Changed the FPR today thinking that may be why it's running super rich, if that is what it's doing. When I clicked the key to 'on' it showered my entire engine bay in fuel from the machine pressed seal around the diaphragm housing, returned and replacement should be there in the morning. Yay advance discount! :lol: . Anyone have a better idea as to what it may be? Fuel temp sensor connector snapped a I was removing that, but it shouldn't have done THAT much.
When I try the second new FPR, if that doesn't do it, I'm going to return that and get a dizzy cap and wires, as the plugs are still relatively new (but maybe I'll get those anyway…). If that proves to not be the issue, I'm going to garage the poor lil Z, rip out the engine, and start a VG33 swap, and go straight to an NA2T on that one (will need to get the parts, as mine is NA). -
ignition control module. small little device connected to he harness side of the ignition coil. make sure you have spark. replace coil or module if you have shitty spark. -
Holy shit that was fast…Careless wrote: ignition control module. small little device connected to he harness side of the ignition coil. make sure you have spark. replace coil or module if you have shitty spark.
Alright, I assume it's the small thing mounted on the same bracket that looks like a transistor with the silver-ish cap and 3 wires going to it? -
I checked the module, and my DMM shows continuity on all 3 connections, though I can't get the coil to read ANYWHERE near the right resistance between 1 and 3.Careless wrote: ignition control module. small little device connected to he harness side of the ignition coil. make sure you have spark. replace coil or module if you have shitty spark.
1 - 2 : 1 - 1.1 ohms, perfect
1 - 3 : ~1M ohm…so about 100 times the resistance it should read. It looks corroded in there, so I'll replace the coil, and if that doesn't do it, I'm gonna start worrying about finding a VG33.
edit: it reads closer to 100K ohm when I measure through the coil to cap wire and the coils #1 terminal. Still 10 times the expected resistance. -
After replacing the coil, she's still blowing plenty of smoke, but not as much as there was before. There's still some back firing if I come off the accelerator in gear (compression braking). I got a set of wires from a 300zx in the JY, and all the connectors look nice and not corroded. I'll switch those in, and maybe it'll get even a bit better.
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