Apologies for the long post and longer update... scroll past quote for update.
Frell, frell Frell!!...
So the other night i decide to replace my oil pressure sender with the autometer one for my aftermarket gauge.
everything goes smooth, disconnect battery, drop starter, replace sensor (with npt/bspt thread adapter)
reinstall starter, hook up battery, back it out of garage and park it.
next morning, day 1:
Starts up, runs for about 15 seconds and sputters and dies.
Starts up again, same thing.. rpms to about 1200 and slowly goes down to the normal 700rpm idle,
but it keeps going down and dies a sputtering death.
Any attempts to rev it cause an occasional backfire and more sputtering.
After a couple attempts i can get it to barely idle.
The temp goes to the 3rd notch and then...*poof everything is fine.
Pull it in the garage.
Disconnect the AFM and start it, no rpms past 1700, exhaust is noticeably richer. as predicted.
Put in spare AFM, revs fine...scratch head, say wtf a few times and drive 25 miles to work.
after work, day 1:
Same issue as in the morning...let it warm up completely.... drive home.
side effect: spare afm seems to fix acceleration stumble i had been experiencing.
morning, day 2:
I figure, I'll try disconnecting the EGR solenoid.
Start it..same problem as before, it starts and then dies.
plug EGR back in.
disconnect vac line to FPR.
start it.. rpms up a little, but still bogs on rev
plug vac line back in.
Idles long enough to reach temp and drives fine...for about 1/4 mile.
Intermittently, in the middle of traffic, it starts to bog down...wont accelerate very well, backfires
if i try to rev it. can't easily go above 25mph...
I turn around and head back home.
On the way back home...poof* everything is fine again.
FUCK!!
say fuck it and try to drive to work...no more problems.
Just went out on my lunch with a screwdriver and a crescent wrench..
Starts up, dies.
read ECU codes:
(from my worksheet)
(dunno what code 42 is about..its not in the 84 FSM)
after reset, no bad codes show...even after step 5 of "start car" and its barely, barely idling....
Car warms up and idles, revs fine...
Shut car off, disconnect negative battery lead.
Wait about a minute.
Reconnect battery
Start car .
Rough idle and backfire during revs is back again.
atleast it is idling.
Lunch is over, and its starting to rain...again.
If i can get it running/driving, simply by letting it warm up completely and idle for like 10 minutes,
i'll rerun the codes when i get home.
WTF is happening here!!
tonight i will also try:
connecting my DVM to the 02 sensor and see if the voltage output is screwy.
search for vac leaks (doubtfull, all hoses are new)
bypass fuel filter (its only a 1.5years old)
check output of CHTS, check resistance between it and ECU.
check stuff under battery to see if i might have knocked anything loose when i pulled the starter (doubtfull).
Rainy days and shit like this make we wanna sell it and buy a non FI Datsun truck.[/quote:39b30]
So after work i got to investigating.
Unplugged the o2 sensor for shits and grins..
The plug was filled with water.
fuck.
best case, replace o2 sensor if the heating circuit fried the sensor circuit.
worst case, water shorted out circuit anyway and damaged the ECU.
I think this is it.
reason...the lights on my autometer o2 gauge always fluctuated in the stoich area, sometimes
lean. On the drive home (commute from HELL) it stayed in the lean, off the scale. It idled and
reved a smooth a few times. those were the times that the light unburied itself and read in
the middle of the lean section. otherwise it was bucking all the way thru traffic, heavy rain and
hale. Uphills sucked bad.
Its my fault too.
I spliced the plug with a 4th wire for my autometer gauge, soldered the wire right to the blade connector.
well those seals aren't meant for 2 wires, so i made it work. Water leaked right in there. Its been raining
like a SOB lately and my rear cowl/hood seal is not installed.
off to get a new sensor.
GAHHHHHH!!!!!
[quote:39b30]
I've been getting this problem for awhile,
but, i just sat out in the parking lot on lunch and watched the following events:
[*]Cold engine
Start car..3 or 4 cranks and its running
Idle settles to 700RPM and is smooth.
Clutch goes in and gear shifted to first.
As i start to pull away, it boggs and sputters.
If i feather the clutch in ~2400RPM i can take off, but if i don't keep the RPMS up, it bogs down again.
So i sit there (in nuetral) and watch it bog down as i rev slowly between 1200 and ~2400 RPMS
Exhaust smell is richer and looks cloudier.
If i quickly rev it, it sounds as if i could make it backfire thru the intake (which has happend before).
As i watch the temp gauge warm up, the bogging suddenly stops when the temp gauge goes from:
to
Car accelerates fine from a stop, no more hesitation.
What event occurs when the temp goes past the marker on the side.
The ECU switches a signal from CHTS to O2 or something similar?
I always thought this issue was due to my faulty AAC/Idle valve, which i recently replaced.
The engine idles smoother and has a working fast idle, but this temp related bogging issue is
still there, sometimes worse than others. I think the times that it isn't as bad is when the A/C
is on during defrost, so the AAC is bumping up the idle, ...maybe?
I did the FTS/CHTS bypass for awhile, but believe any benifits it provided was being
thwarted by my faulty AAC valve. I have it back the way it was.
No related codes generated the last time i checked on the 03/08/07 (had this hesitation issue back then too)
I'm sure this has been answered here or there in one way or another, but
i haven't read anything that fits this MO as i have described above.
Thanks.
Oh..
84 Turbo
FMIC
modified 3in intake (also match ported, relocated AFM)
t3/4 turbo (unsure on flavor)
stock exhaust
I've been getting this problem for awhile,
but, i just sat out in the parking lot on lunch and watched the following events:
[*]Cold engine
Start car..3 or 4 cranks and its running
Idle settles to 700RPM and is smooth.
Clutch goes in and gear shifted to first.
As i start to pull away, it boggs and sputters.
If i feather the clutch in ~2400RPM i can take off, but if i don't keep the RPMS up, it bogs down again.
So i sit there (in nuetral) and watch it bog down as i rev slowly between 1200 and ~2400 RPMS
Exhaust smell is richer and looks cloudier.
If i quickly rev it, it sounds as if i could make it backfire thru the intake (which has happend before).
As i watch the temp gauge warm up, the bogging suddenly stops when the temp gauge goes from:
to
Car accelerates fine from a stop, no more hesitation.
What event occurs when the temp goes past the marker on the side.
The ECU switches a signal from CHTS to O2 or something similar?
I always thought this issue was due to my faulty AAC/Idle valve, which i recently replaced.
The engine idles smoother and has a working fast idle, but this temp related bogging issue is
still there, sometimes worse than others. I think the times that it isn't as bad is when the A/C
is on during defrost, so the AAC is bumping up the idle, ...maybe?
I did the FTS/CHTS bypass for awhile, but believe any benifits it provided was being
thwarted by my faulty AAC valve. I have it back the way it was.
No related codes generated the last time i checked on the 03/08/07 (had this hesitation issue back then too)
I'm sure this has been answered here or there in one way or another, but
i haven't read anything that fits this MO as i have described above.
Thanks.
Oh..
84 Turbo
FMIC
modified 3in intake (also match ported, relocated AFM)
t3/4 turbo (unsure on flavor)
stock exhaust
Frell, frell Frell!!...
So the other night i decide to replace my oil pressure sender with the autometer one for my aftermarket gauge.
everything goes smooth, disconnect battery, drop starter, replace sensor (with npt/bspt thread adapter)
reinstall starter, hook up battery, back it out of garage and park it.
next morning, day 1:
Starts up, runs for about 15 seconds and sputters and dies.
Starts up again, same thing.. rpms to about 1200 and slowly goes down to the normal 700rpm idle,
but it keeps going down and dies a sputtering death.
Any attempts to rev it cause an occasional backfire and more sputtering.
After a couple attempts i can get it to barely idle.
The temp goes to the 3rd notch and then...*poof everything is fine.
Pull it in the garage.
Disconnect the AFM and start it, no rpms past 1700, exhaust is noticeably richer. as predicted.
Put in spare AFM, revs fine...scratch head, say wtf a few times and drive 25 miles to work.
after work, day 1:
Same issue as in the morning...let it warm up completely.... drive home.
side effect: spare afm seems to fix acceleration stumble i had been experiencing.
morning, day 2:
I figure, I'll try disconnecting the EGR solenoid.
Start it..same problem as before, it starts and then dies.
plug EGR back in.
disconnect vac line to FPR.
start it.. rpms up a little, but still bogs on rev
plug vac line back in.
Idles long enough to reach temp and drives fine...for about 1/4 mile.
Intermittently, in the middle of traffic, it starts to bog down...wont accelerate very well, backfires
if i try to rev it. can't easily go above 25mph...
I turn around and head back home.
On the way back home...poof* everything is fine again.
FUCK!!
say fuck it and try to drive to work...no more problems.
Just went out on my lunch with a screwdriver and a crescent wrench..
Starts up, dies.
read ECU codes:
(from my worksheet)
(dunno what code 42 is about..its not in the 84 FSM)
after reset, no bad codes show...even after step 5 of "start car" and its barely, barely idling....
Car warms up and idles, revs fine...
Shut car off, disconnect negative battery lead.
Wait about a minute.
Reconnect battery
Start car .
Rough idle and backfire during revs is back again.
atleast it is idling.
Lunch is over, and its starting to rain...again.
If i can get it running/driving, simply by letting it warm up completely and idle for like 10 minutes,
i'll rerun the codes when i get home.
WTF is happening here!!
tonight i will also try:
connecting my DVM to the 02 sensor and see if the voltage output is screwy.
search for vac leaks (doubtfull, all hoses are new)
bypass fuel filter (its only a 1.5years old)
check output of CHTS, check resistance between it and ECU.
check stuff under battery to see if i might have knocked anything loose when i pulled the starter (doubtfull).
Rainy days and shit like this make we wanna sell it and buy a non FI Datsun truck.[/quote:39b30]
So after work i got to investigating.
Unplugged the o2 sensor for shits and grins..
The plug was filled with water.
fuck.
best case, replace o2 sensor if the heating circuit fried the sensor circuit.
worst case, water shorted out circuit anyway and damaged the ECU.
I think this is it.
reason...the lights on my autometer o2 gauge always fluctuated in the stoich area, sometimes
lean. On the drive home (commute from HELL) it stayed in the lean, off the scale. It idled and
reved a smooth a few times. those were the times that the light unburied itself and read in
the middle of the lean section. otherwise it was bucking all the way thru traffic, heavy rain and
hale. Uphills sucked bad.
Its my fault too.
I spliced the plug with a 4th wire for my autometer gauge, soldered the wire right to the blade connector.
well those seals aren't meant for 2 wires, so i made it work. Water leaked right in there. Its been raining
like a SOB lately and my rear cowl/hood seal is not installed.
off to get a new sensor.
GAHHHHHH!!!!!
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