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This problem has been ongoing, I haven't got high hopes of fixing the problem unless someone can give me direction. Here's the list of things done to the car.- Motor from an automatic mated to manual box (car was originally manual)
- Injectors rewired and replaced
- Timing belt changed
- Spark plugs and leads changed
- Cleaned EGR and Idle solonoid
- Water pump changed
- Hoses changed
The problem has persisted throughout these various fixes. It'll run fine up until I turn the car off and turn it back on before it's had a good amount of time to cool down. (It doesn't overheat at all)
It's spent a lot of its life at an auto electricians so some of the wires have been cut and soldered, I've checked most of the joins and they seem good. I've tried a couple of spare ECUs I have hear to no avail (most of them have more problems one of them the fuel pump remains on forever). I don't think the ECU runs any codes, but I'll check tomorrow. I thought it was a leaky injector causing it. The car ran a lot better after changing all 6.
Thinks I suspect are the problem, but I can't test are- Distributor, (I've changed the cap and rotor, but I'm not sure about the CAS and the electrics below it)
- PTU (I've ordered a PRW-2)
- ECU (i don't know if this matches up with my setup or is even working correctly)
It's also got another problem, it seems to corrode around the positive terminal on the battery quite quickly. Could this be a problem with the battery itself? I've checked most earths.
Thanks. -
miss
do you feel your miss is an electrical and/or fuel-ignition miss, or an internal engine miss? I have the same issue on mine, but I believe there is an internal problem. first, check spark. so, did you use NGK plugs? how about your wires? one or more could be bad. you should test those. second, are all of your injectors firing properly?
how's your compression? maybe you have a stuck valve or a dead cylinder. test your ecu using the FSM. make sure its not throwing any fault codes.
which car do you have? zenki or kouki? coupe or 2+2? n/a or turbo?
Bon -
They're NGK, with Top Gun leads, (I've had a spare set of leads I tried too).
I assume all the injectors are firing correctly, It's not missing on one cylinder, it seems to jump. It's an 1985 Z31 N/A from Australia.
I'm going to check the codes tomorrow since I can't remember having done that. It seems electrical in nature. from the fact that it only occurs at a certain rev range -
If it jumps, check coil lead to make sure it's inserted all the way in coil and cap. I know it sounds dumb but mine would make such a good seal that the trapped air would keep it from seating all the way and gave me an intermittent miss. Also, hate to say it, but CAS or worn dist bushings are next as those can cause timing signal to jp around.
GL
MikeButter (credit where credit is due): "You have this "gift" where you can make cooking a Hot Pocket seem like you need a certain wavelength microwave and involve brown mustard." -
Before and after warming it runs these codes.
Code 23
Code 31
I've checked and messed around with many combos of ignition leads.
Here is what the car sounds like when it's fine. -
That code 23 could be a misadjusted tps, is this a manual or auto ecu? Auto had variable throttle position, whereas the manual just had a switch for idle. May need to check that idle switch is closing with throttle closed all the way.Butter (credit where credit is due): "You have this "gift" where you can make cooking a Hot Pocket seem like you need a certain wavelength microwave and involve brown mustard." -
I'm not sure what the ECU is from. Like I said the motor (and I'm assuming TPS are from an automatic) I know the TPS on this car has two plugs. (one is not plugged into anything) -
Just checked service manual and it says 23 is specifically the idle switch, so I would unplug the tps and, with throttle closed use an ohm meter to check continuity on idle switch pins. I deleted idle controls and had to raise idle speed manually, then had to readjust tps so idle switch closed with throttle body up against new idle stop position. Also check that u don't have oil/sludge/carbon/small animals blocking the throttle plate. Clean with carb cleaner if dirty so it closes all the way.
GL
MikeButter (credit where credit is due): "You have this "gift" where you can make cooking a Hot Pocket seem like you need a certain wavelength microwave and involve brown mustard." -
Okay, I just unplugged the idle switch and adjusted it, I couldn't get a good signal so I swapped it for a spare one from a z32 i had lying around, I pryed it apart to look at the interior and plugged it in and the continuity worked at idle and went away at throttle.
The new one seemed to run exactly the same as the old one did except for a higher idle which i couldn't adjust out. -
I plugged in the original one, ran the car and tested the ECU again, the same codes came up. The spare ECUs I have here, one has written 'fuel pump stays on' on it from memory that might be the original one too. (just incase that's relevant to the TPS) -
Replaced the TPS and issue still presists anyone got any other ideas? -
What makes you think the miss is jumping around? Have you got a clip of it running while its missing?Straya, +61 -
I think it was either the fuel pump or an earth lead from the diff. i fixed both and the problem seems like it's gone.
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