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i need to replace my steering rack, because the steering knuckle has far too much play in it and the rack is leaking…i need to replace the knuckle by removing the rack unless and one has any better way of doing this job. so i figured id replace it....
does any one know of any rebuild kit? and do all year steering racks fit? i have an 88t would i have to get a rack from an 87-89 turbo car? or will and other non turbo one work?
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They're all the same.TurboZkid wrote: i need to replace my steering rack, because the steering knuckle has far too much play in it and the rack is leaking…i need to replace the knuckle by removing the rack unless and one has any better way of doing this job. so i figured id replace it....
does any one know of any rebuild kit? and do all year steering racks fit? i have an 88t would i have to get a rack from an 87-89 turbo car? or will and other non turbo one work?
Check your other thread, I posted a link for you.545 RWHP & 540 RWTQOriginally posted by Andrew84zx
tell her your car is so fast it will make her panties fly off
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i think you have your terminology mixed up.. the steering knuckle is between the strut tube and the control arm. Its the part that the tie rod attaches to. you dont need to touch the rack to replace this… i think you are talking about the lower steering U-joint that has play in it. this is the piece that comes out of the firewall from the steering column and attaches to the rack and has a small ujoint on it. This part comes out without removing or replacing the rack. If your rack is leaking id suggest replacing it rather than rebuilding it. Ive used rebuild kits before and they never seal everything up. you can get a rack for 150 from places like rockauto.com -
i got mine for $150 shipped.
got it from car parts wholesale.Gone - 1988 Shiro
2004 BMW 330Ci
2005 BMW 330i
1991 Twin Turbo Z's (Red and Black)
http://www.E46Turbo330Ci.com -
ok yea i was talking about the u joint at the bottum of steering column..yea and since i have to replace that u joint i should do the rack at the same time....how do you suggest taking the rack out? dropping the sub frame seems the most logicalChris86NA2T wrote: i think you have your terminology mixed up.. the steering knuckle is between the strut tube and the control arm. Its the part that the tie rod attaches to. you dont need to touch the rack to replace this… i think you are talking about the lower steering U-joint that has play in it. this is the piece that comes out of the firewall from the steering column and attaches to the rack and has a small ujoint on it. This part comes out without removing or replacing the rack. If your rack is leaking id suggest replacing it rather than rebuilding it. Ive used rebuild kits before and they never seal everything up. you can get a rack for 150 from places like rockauto.com -
[quote]TurboZkid wrote:undo the engine mount isolators and lift the engine a few inches…Originally posted by Chris86NA2TGone - 1988 Shiro
2004 BMW 330Ci
2005 BMW 330i
1991 Twin Turbo Z's (Red and Black)
http://www.E46Turbo330Ci.com -
1) Drain the system.
2) Lift car, remove wheels.
3) Disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle arm. It's a bitch to get out, you might need a puller.
4) Once you have the tie rods off the knuckle arms, disconnect the hard lines from the power steering system. If you have to bend then a little to get them out of the way, be careful not to pinch them.
5) There are two brackets hold the rack onto the crossmember, they are different so be sure to remember which side they came from.
6) Remove the rack. It isn't difficult to get out, but you have to work it out. I slid mine out of the driver's side wheel well, but I put the new one in from the passenger side so I doubt that it matters. It's helpful to have a friend because though the rack doesn't weigh much, it seems that you always have to move the little bastard while at a mechanical disadvantage.
Bam, then install the new one.Feedback- viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19840
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I didn't think it was hard at all :lol:
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haha yea i wish i had done this when the motor was out but i was low on money at the time and now im pain for it lmao -
Hope the pic helps anyway.TurboZkid wrote: haha yea i wish i had done this when the motor was out but i was low on money at the time and now im pain for it lmao -
Not to jack this post but how are the rack bushings from Jason, jn1cz ?R.I.P. Elian Angel Rowley. 05/15/2010-07/22/2010
We will never forget.
87' 300ZX Turbo
Great minds discuss ideas,
average minds discuss events,
small minds discuss people.
â Admiral Hyman G. Rickover. -
You could just de-power the rack and never worry about leaks again. Plus you can remove weight and free up space by removing the pump, bracket, and lines.
1986 300ZX Turbo…sold
1990 Skyline GT-R…new money pit
2014 Juke Nismo RS 6-speed…daily -
Top quality like all MFP/z31p parts. I haven't driven my car to test them yet but I have about $700 worth of z31performance.com parts in my car so I trust the quality.Josh87turbo wrote: Not to jack this post but how are the rack bushings from Jason, jn1cz ?
Hmmm… $700…that should qualify me for a free sticker or something :lol:
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