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My AE has a pretty badly crushed passenger rail.
The good thing is it's not rusted out.
I was thinking about how to approach repairing it.
1)Trying to weld on some bolts and pull it with a slide hammer, like body shop studs.
2)Shaping a 16ga sheet and weld it in place over it. I picked up a plate of weldsteel from Lowes today.
3)Cutting it out along the creases, hammering it flat and welding it back into place.Last edited by Z_Karma; 08-13-2020, 02:28 PM. Reason: moved topic from Engine Mechanical to Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
How did you crush it? Jack? I say don't worry about it.Mike_GruiZinga
DISCLAIMER:
These are sold as is, with no warranty expressed or implied. They are not intended for use ever. I do not condone using them for anything but paperweights. Your safest bet would be to set them on a shelf in your garage, and bench race with your buddies about how awesome your 20 year old sports car will be some day.
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i have to do this to mine eventually too, and IMHO it would be best to cut the bottom off and straighten the sides, then weld some new, 11ga (1/8") flat on there so it has a bit more strength. When i do mine i plan to use some round chassis tubing so i have a strong, rounded framerail for using stands and jacks87 Turbo: Stock VG33, stock cams, maxima intake, T5, DXD stage 3 clutch, tubular stainless headers, GT3582r, full 3" stainless exhaust, E85 680cc inj. and Nistune
current time: 13.39@106, 2.05 60' 12psi with old stock 85T motor and street tires! -
do nothing and put some coating over what is left.
You did more damage taking off the coating than the crushed metal would have done. -
Z31P- VG30DET (HE341) 86 300ZX - 1982 280ZX Turbo - Headered NA 1986 300ZX 2+2 - 2000 Xterra - -
[quote]michaelp wrote:http://home.comcast.net/~gwmolitor/frame_repair.htmlOriginally posted by nutsaq…and how much HP do you have at 0 boost -
Hmm.. Sinse that will be little more thougher that stock. Has anyone thinked to make boltable X under the car?Russ84na wrote: http://home.comcast.net/~gwmolitor/frame_repair.html
1-2 hard bolts thrue framerail in all ends. That way it will be removable if need to remove gearbox or exhaust.
Body should not flex that bad in tight ( track ) corners?
[attachment=0:h6wkpql2]nissan_z31.jpg[/attachment:h6wkpql2]Jukka Kivinen - Europe / Finland - '88 Turbo 2+2 Targa
Datsun Nissan Sports Cars of Finland
http://www.z31turbo.com / http://www.z31na.com -
I will have to do some frame rail repair in the future as well as previous owners or shops decided that was a good jacking point. Im not too worried about it now, but it is something I want to address.'85 300zx turbo: exhaust, intercooler, coilovers, etc…SOLD, will be missed
'86 300zx turbo: starting over
'97 Dodge 2500: 12v Cummins …selling and will be missed
'94 Jeep Cherokee: D60 Front 14b rear, both locked and 5.38 gears, 37" mtr's
2015 Ram 2500 megacab laramie cummins black appearance package -
It was like this when i bought the car last year.
http://z31performance.com/forum/…p?f=13&t=15718
wwgd
(what would Gary do?)
yeah, i guess i already knew the answer before asking the question.
I'll clean it up, prime it and cap it.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
That is a great looking 3" exhaust system you have. -
i would :
- try the stud-pull trick first. make sure your surrounding floor is tough.
- forget welding over it.
- forget cutting it out and bending it back and rewelding.
- if cutting anything out, replace with all new metal. -
I'm wondering if a stud welder would work on that thicker (14ga?) frame rail metal.
I 120.00 HF stud welder wouldn't be a bad investment for this project..and the Shiros.
84 AE/Shiro #683/Shiro #820/84 Turbo -
+1Careless wrote: i would :
- try the stud-pull trick first. make sure your surrounding floor is tough.
- forget welding over it.
- forget cutting it out and bending it back and rewelding.
- if cutting anything out, replace with all new metal.
:
lease
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It's been done. There's a guy who made up that and other chassis braces for… Maronee, maybe? Can't remember, "they" are willing to reproduce as they have a jig but it's in Japan. And the Stramans had an X-brace as well, if memory serves.Kennedy wrote: Hmm.. Sinse that will be little more thougher that stock. Has anyone thinked to make boltable X under the car?
1-2 hard bolts thrue framerail in all ends. That way it will be removable if need to remove gearbox or exhaust.
Body should not flex that bad in tight ( track ) corners?
[attachment=0:1ldjuri3]nissan_z31.jpg[/attachment:1ldjuri3]Feedback- viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19840
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I don't think it was Maronee, but I think he was the first to post pics of the car it was on, that is if you are referring to the white one. I believe it was first posted in the Mr. K's b-day celebration thread from quiz. As for the Stramans, I have no clue, Z-bum would be a good one to ask.
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