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I ordered a nice set of used injectors for my 85T today to hopefully eliminate a misfiring issue I have. I figured since I'll have the intake manifold off already, I should make the most of it. I already have a 240sx TB laying around, so I thought I may as well install it. I searched, but couldn't find a write up on the swap. What I don't know is what modifications need to be done to fit it? I can see the coolant hoses are pointed the wrong way, can they be clocked differently? Right now one points straight up, and I'm worried it will hit the hood. It looks like the TPS is identical, so my current one should bolt up. I also noticed the throttle cables attach in a slightly different place, so i assume that will require some adjustment. Once I figure out how to bolt it up, I know I need to port the intake plenum. I assume the easiest thing to do is port it to the size of the new gasket, but I've never ported anything before. I'm guessing a Dremel with the right bit and a careful hand should do the trick. How far back should I taper the larger hole? I know it won't make much difference with a virtually stock engine, but it might be a fun and educational thing to do while I have the engine disassembled. Why not, right? If anyone has any advise, can answer any of these questions, or has a write up or photos of this mod, please let me know!
I also plan to get some other things done while I'm in there. Here is my list:
1) Replace valve cover gaskets. I assume the lifters are non-adjustable, right?
2) New spark plugs. Easiest time to do this! Any suggestions for what works best? I have NGK V-Powers now.
3) Replace all gaskets associated with the intake.
4) Replace the rubber hoses on the charge pipe. I already replaced the upper, but need the lower. I'd like a silicone one to match the upper. What should I order?
5) Clean the idle up solenoid
6) I saw what looked like a radiator hose buried under the intake on the driver's side right next to the valve cover. I want to replace this while I have access. What do I need to order?
If anyone can think of anything else, let me know. I already have new fuel lines and an adjustable FPR. I plan to build a VG33 eventually, and I'm trying to get all the supporting mods in place as I repair things.
Thanks in advance!"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you…"
-'68 Datsun 1600 Roadster
Build Thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21…-build-thread/
-'85 300zx Turbo
Build Thread: http://z31performance.com/showthread…)build-thread! -
Coolant lines to TB can be deleted in fact that is considered an improvement. The line you mentioned is 5/8. A fresh VG30 kicks ass…I. have no traction until I'm somewhere in the 3rd gear.Cha iro
enjoy building it yourself.
if it fails, fuck it.
at least you gave it a whirl. -
sounds like your on the right track do all that see if you can find some ngk wires.
SEARCH and do the "PWR-2" mod
lifters are non adjustable.
as for the throttlebody taper to the gasket should be more than enough its only a milimeter or 3.. -
I have a PRW-2, NGK wires, K&N filter, Maxima E-fans, a lightened flywheel (JWT), FuelLab adjustable FPR, and a Walbro pump. Unfortunately, it still runs like shit thanks to the plugged injectors. That's what happens when a car sits in a field for 15 years. I just want to solve any and all problems while I have it apart.
I assume to bypass the coolant line I just connect the two hoses and then chip off the coolant inlets. That makes sense, cooler air is always better. Keep the info coming, it is super helpful!!!
And I want to replace the rubber junction between the Turbo and the charge pipe, but I don't know what to order. That was what I meant. Also, anyone know if it is okay to replace the little J shaped vacuum line on the turbo with silicone vacuum line? Obviously it should be zip-tied so it doesn't pop off. If so, I plan to install my manual boost controller then too, although for now I will leave it at stock boost."Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you…"
-'68 Datsun 1600 Roadster
Build Thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21…-build-thread/
-'85 300zx Turbo
Build Thread: http://z31performance.com/showthread…)build-thread! -
I just went to Lordco and got a silicone hose that fit. If it doesn't want to go on put it in hot water for a few minutes and then put it on and reuse the clamps1986 300ZX factory Turbo 2+2 5 speed swap. 1985 Toyota MR2. Floor boards gone. Good fabrication practice.
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as for the silicone insert. cut that fitting off and get a silicone reducer 1.5 to 2 inch i believe.
i can get injectors. we have a shit ton here 75 shipped pm me.
ill even throw in quick push disconnects for the lead wires -
I went and deleted the hard lines (coolant? It's been so long since I was dorking around with them) that run under the rear of the plenum, cleaned up a decent amount of space. If you bypass those then you can bypass the lines under the TB and THEN you can run a single line from the passenger side LIM to the nipple at the rear of the valley. Should clear a whole lot up.
2001 Mazda Miata LS
also a 1989 Nissan 240SX
50th AE Build Thread SOLD 2015 -
Okay, cool. I assume I can just cut those lines off with a hacksaw? They don't look like I can unbolt them. Do you happen to have a picture of how you hooked up the throttle cable and cruise control? A picture is worth a thousand words, as they say.Big_E-Dog2;345002 wrote: as for the silicone insert. cut that fitting off and get a silicone reducer 1.5 to 2 inch i believe.
i can get injectors. we have a shit ton here 75 shipped pm me.
ill even throw in quick push disconnects for the lead wires
I have the injectors already, but I appreciate the offer! As for the reducer, where would I buy one? I'm having a hard time picturing what you are describing, I think.
Kimbro Slice;345698 wrote: I went and deleted the hard lines (coolant? It's been so long since I was dorking around with them) that run under the rear of the plenum, cleaned up a decent amount of space. If you bypass those then you can bypass the lines under the TB and THEN you can run a single line from the passenger side LIM to the nipple at the rear of the valley. Should clear a whole lot up.
I also ordered a plenum spacer from ASCO yesterday, and will install that at the same time. Why not, right?"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you…"
-'68 Datsun 1600 Roadster
Build Thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21…-build-thread/
-'85 300zx Turbo
Build Thread: http://z31performance.com/showthread…)build-thread! -
I didn't cut the lines off from under the TB, but the two long hard lines can be unbolted from under the plenum.
2001 Mazda Miata LS
also a 1989 Nissan 240SX
50th AE Build Thread SOLD 2015 -
I guess I'll have to look at it for it to make sense. I assume you mean you deleted the coolant lines for the plenum and the TB, and ran a soft line from the inlet to the outlet (going around the plenum entirely). Is there any disadvantage to doing this? Harder cold starts or something? The factory usually has a reason for everything they do, so I'm just curious.Kimbro Slice;345705 wrote: I didn't cut the lines off from under the TB, but the two long hard lines can be unbolted from under the plenum."Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you…"
-'68 Datsun 1600 Roadster
Build Thread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21…-build-thread/
-'85 300zx Turbo
Build Thread: http://z31performance.com/showthread…)build-thread! -
That whole cluster of hard lines does unbolt from under the UIM.
I removed them all. Capped off the AAV And outlet from the intake pipe too.
Works great.
Also bypassed coolant to the UIM when I installed the phenolic spacer from ASCO
looks much more clean now. Still fires right up.http://z31performance.com/showthread…2-2-(-now-NA2T
My build thread (:
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