electric water pump?
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ZFast88ZSenior Member
- 1882
Chrisw_2003 wrote: I was kinda thinking about doing a inline fuel pump as a water pump. just plumb it in and then when you want some extra flow or when your cooling down on the side of the track just flip a switch or wire it up to your efan relayThe bullshit stops, when the GREEN light drops.
Only babies cry about the bottle. -
NewJerseyZSenior Member
- 191
Careless wrote:
maybe it did, and you just don't know it :-P -
Chrisw_2003Senior Member
- 2503
[quote]ZFast88Z wrote:Originally posted by Chrisw_2003I was kinda thinking about doing a inline fuel pump as a water pump. just plumb it in and then when you want some extra flow or when your cooling down on the side of the track just flip a switch or wire it up to your efan relay
And you will burn up pumps. Water doesn't lubricate like fuel does. Buy an inline electric water pump, there are plenty designed for this particular application. -
NewJerseyZSenior Member
- 191
Update:
Now that I've finally had some weather above 30 degrees --- December was a bust --- I was able to mount both the thermostat housing adapter and the CSR pump as modified by BDE. The fit went much better than I expected, as in bolting everything up and lining up the suction tube to the thermostat's new position.
Pictures to follow in a day or two, as they're being burned onto a disc by my neighbor. -
CarelessSenior Member
- 13279
[quote]Chrisw_2003 wrote: [quote=ZFast88Z]Originally posted by Chrisw_2003:168uzxt5I was kinda thinking about doing a inline fuel pump as a water pump. just plumb it in and then when you want some extra flow or when your cooling down on the side of the track just flip a switch or wire it up to your efan relay
And you will burn up pumps. Water doesn't lubricate like fuel does. Buy an inline electric water pump, there are plenty designed for this particular application.
using a fuel pump to pump water when electric water pumps are readily available is a half-assed attempt at solving a problem you don't even have yet- like cooling issues. using your logic, if your engine burns down- you can buy another one of those from the junkyard too. but is it worth the hassle when you're in rush-hour traffic or an accident backs up the highway and your "fuel" or "water" pump dies?
just use an electric water pump made for the application. -
260DETSenior Member
- 537
[quote]Chrisw_2003 wrote:Originally posted by 260DETDon't see the need for an electric coolant pump at all, the coolant will thermo syphon by itself after shutdown. An electric thermo fan that can be kept running after shutdown is the usual solution.
well if you wanted your car to cool down faster (which I do so i can spend more time on the track) its better to have the water cycle through the system.
EDIT 80 degrees celcius not F, duh, in other words just a bit lower than the running temp. -
NewJerseyZSenior Member
- 191
The following are photos showing the install of the CSR water pump and thermostat housing spacer:
1) Below one can see the final install. The spacer can easily be seen (on edge) as it is bright aluminum. Note the coolant return tube just to the right of the housing --- this is what causes it to arc slightly as it lifts up from the block by 1/4 inch. Also, note the close alignment of the suction tube next to the thermostat inlet housing.
[attachment=2:2922c9be]CIMG5369.jpg[/attachment:2922c9be]
2) A close up of the spacer itself.
[attachment=1:2922c9be]CIMG5370A.jpg[/attachment:2922c9be]
3) Prior to attaching the motor itself, one can see the need for the spacer, as the lower thermostat bolt would interfere with the adapter plate. A 1/4 inch lift was all that was needed.
[attachment=0:2922c9be]CIMG5387.jpg[/attachment:2922c9be] -
NewJerseyZSenior Member
- 191
Here is a shot of the Flex-a-Lite electric fan which is radially mounted to the upper OEM shroud. This was done to keep the directly heated air from going to the intake filter which will be mounted near the OEM location.
[attachment=0:1w9ofx4t]CIMG5398.jpg[/attachment:1w9ofx4t] -
jono794Member
- 74
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NewJerseyZSenior Member
- 191
Thank you. I still have to cut the timing belt shroud to fit around the pump assembly, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem with a good pair of sheet metal sheers and some patience. I'll keep things posted as they go. -
RXGhostSenior Member
- 510
Why not just clean up your block and run it with out the cover?1984 300ZX - 1988 VG30T Engine, Trans, Diff, ECU
1987 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car ), 1988 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car )
1972 240Z -- Full restore - L28ET L6 Engine from 280zx, T-5 transmission, Rear diff from the 87
1998 Mazda B-2500, And a lot of bikes -
NewJerseyZSenior Member
- 191
Because I'm the type that would end up with my finger getting caught in there, somewhere. No, really … that sort of makes me feel too uneasy. No room for any mistakes what-so-ever.
What's really holding me up is this damn cold weather I'm having out my way this season --- beginning in December (and I mean within the first few days) it's been brutally cold, and I don't have a heated garage. But everything is ready once it thaws a bit --- hell, I'll start working at 45F, too bad it's only gotten to around 35F at best. -
KennedySenior Member
- 1158
So how many hve updated to electric over the years? How many have gone back?
Davies Craig users?
But the main question that have been asked thrue years without answer. What is the stock water pump flow rate?
How much less there is need for flow when upgrading from stock radiator to like 3row Champion?Jukka Kivinen - Europe / Finland - '88 Turbo 2+2 Targa
Datsun Nissan Sports Cars of Finland
http://www.z31turbo.com / http://www.z31na.com -
NewJerseyZSenior Member
- 191
I've had my electric water pump on now for years with no issues, so I'm not one who is thinking of ever going back. I'm using the Euro radiator which does have a slightly greater capacity than the OEM US radiator; I swapped out due to my using Euro cams and other mods which result in about 50 more HP over stock at this time. As for using larger radiators --- like the 3 row you mentioned --- you want to be sure you don't cool down the coolant too much in the radiator, as it will result in the thermostat closing down due to the engine coolant becoming too cool. This will result in a too low flow rate which will cause the engine coolant to become too hot which will then cause the thermostat to open up … and the cycle will repeat over and over and have a hard time stabilizing. Unless you're running a really hot engine, a much larger radiator won't yield more cooling, the thermostat will take care of that by allowing greater flow. Radiators don't really cool the coolant as much as most people might think; 20 - 40 degrees F is typical. They are sized more to the engine than to the flow rate; their main job is to remove heat, not cool down the coolant all that much. My mods put me way over what the Euro spec HP numbers are, yet the Euro radiator works just fine. I also have a thermistor sensing the outlet coolant temperature from the engine, which can increase the flow rate of the water pump. (Yes, it's PWM controlled.) Together with a variable speed pump and thermostat I have no problems with overheating. And should I after a hard run on the freeway come to a dead stop, my electric fan takes over and does the job.Last edited by NewJerseyZ; 12-03-2016, 12:11 AM.