S13/S14/S15 Subframe Conversion Kit GB-STANCE MULTILINK!!

  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    RXGhost wrote: after some inspection of my knuckles my bushings a little shabby i think these are the next upgrade but holy crap that is a lot for bushings
    http://www.splprosuspension.com/SPL_RKB_S13.html
    could use these for now:
    http://www.frsport.com/Energy-7-3115R-R … 21152.html
  • Butter
    Butter
    Senior Member
    • 1519

    Those are for the stock arms, not the knuckle.
    sigpic
  • RXGhost
    RXGhost
    Senior Member
    • 510

    [quote]Careless wrote:
    Originally posted by RXGhost
    after some inspection of my knuckles my bushings a little shabby i think these are the next upgrade but holy crap that is a lot for bushings
    http://www.splprosuspension.com/SPL_RKB_S13.html
    could use these for now:
    http://www.frsport.com/Energy-7-3115R-R … 21152.html
    yeah I was hoping that also but its just for the arms, already got that kit i needed it any way for the lower control arm but no knuckle bushings as butters said
    1984 300ZX - 1988 VG30T Engine, Trans, Diff, ECU
    1987 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car ), 1988 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car )
    1972 240Z -- Full restore - L28ET L6 Engine from 280zx, T-5 transmission, Rear diff from the 87
    1998 Mazda B-2500, And a lot of bikes
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    http://dev3.ben-turner.net/product.php?id_product=215

    250 bucks here. But that looks like it's for one side? gahd damn. the monoballs are 450 a side then? sheeeeeeesh. steel inserts and forget aboot it.
  • Butter
    Butter
    Senior Member
    • 1519

    Are they really that bad? I've never seen those go bad. Probably cheaper just buying another upright from the yard.
    sigpic
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    Butter wrote: Are they really that bad? I've never seen those go bad. Probably cheaper just buying another upright from the yard.
    The factory ones are supposed to be pretty tight, from what my S14 ones feel like. I'm pretty sure they're not the slightly stiffer nismo ones either… But I think that subframe has less than 50,000 miles on it. It would be a heck of a lot cheaper to get a new upright and even replace the hardware while you're at it.
  • RXGhost
    RXGhost
    Senior Member
    • 510

    my left upper bushing, the steel shank can wiggle in the rubber and has very slight left and right play,

    looking at that kit you posted careless it has 4 bushings? that is a little weird is 3 per knuckle

    o well i think ill get them anyway if nothing else it will let the arms pivot fully with out binding and will stiffen it up slightly i have to grind the knuckle anyway because its hitting just slightly
    1984 300ZX - 1988 VG30T Engine, Trans, Diff, ECU
    1987 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car ), 1988 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car )
    1972 240Z -- Full restore - L28ET L6 Engine from 280zx, T-5 transmission, Rear diff from the 87
    1998 Mazda B-2500, And a lot of bikes
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    RXGhost wrote: my left upper bushing, the steel shank can wiggle in the rubber and has very slight left and right play,

    looking at that kit you posted careless it has 4 bushings? that is a little weird is 3 per knuckle

    o well i think ill get them anyway if nothing else it will let the arms pivot fully with out binding and will stiffen it up slightly i have to grind the knuckle anyway because its hitting just slightly
    I see this as a couple of options here. Z32 aluminum uprights lower unsprung weight… Might come with good bushings.

    This might be better to save some cash and have OEM type bushings.
    http://www.meganracing.com/product.asp? … 8&catid=26

    The same bushings you posted are available from Ikeya Formula for less, but still per side, I believe:
    http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/rea … illow-bush

    EDIT: Ikeya Formula and SPL bushings are for BOTH sides, as it comes with 6 bushings for 370 as I've seen on another site. Just be sure to specify hicas or non-hicas, as the OD of some or all of the bushings will be 29 or 32mm depending on that (as read on another site).

    And the poly ones I posted were missing one bushing, so I'm not sure if those are a good purchase.
  • RXGhost
    RXGhost
    Senior Member
    • 510

    cool site more info is always cool its very lame that the non hicas knuckles are 452 though
    1984 300ZX - 1988 VG30T Engine, Trans, Diff, ECU
    1987 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car ), 1988 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car )
    1972 240Z -- Full restore - L28ET L6 Engine from 280zx, T-5 transmission, Rear diff from the 87
    1998 Mazda B-2500, And a lot of bikes
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    RXGhost wrote: cool site more info is always cool its very lame that the non hicas knuckles are 452 though
    now that you bring that up. the reason the other sets have two bushings per side is because it's meant for hicas equipped subframes.

    hicas toe adjustment rods use a balljoint in place of the bushing. and I believe that's why there are only 4 complete bushings total, and the non-hicas versions are more expensive due to the other two bushings.

    I wonder if stance makes an eliminator bar or has one in the works. I would buy that with the rest of the stuff since my subframe has the electronic hicas module.

    or i could hook it up. first z31 with hicas? lulz.
  • datsunzcar84
    datsunzcar84
    Senior Member
    • 740

    Careless wrote:

    or i could hook it up. first z31 with hicas? lulz.
    How is the hicas controlled ?
    D@MN IT FEELS GOOD TO BE A GANGSTA
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    by computer controlled module.

    not part of this thread anyway. currently interested to know if an eliminator bar works or if the hicas now makes the s14 rear subframe a bit different to install using this kit (all s14 come with hicas mounted outboard of the subframe, so i think it doesn't… only the provision for the knuckle is different I guess). bet the pump is in the way of the fuel tank, so i'll have to remove it either way.

    I'll have to dig in further or tackle that when i get there.
  • DMANN
    DMANN
    Senior Member
    • 544

    I have a hicas eliminator bar if you need one…got it but never used it…
    I looked at a non-hicas and a hicas frame and welded some steel tabs on the subframe and used the regular toe arms.
    88na2T-s13,q45 swap 12.6@110mph
    87T 2+2 auto,stock
  • RXGhost
    RXGhost
    Senior Member
    • 510

    Careless wrote: by computer controlled module.

    not part of this thread anyway. currently interested to know if an eliminator bar works or if the hicas now makes the s14 rear subframe a bit different to install using this kit (all s14 come with hicas mounted outboard of the subframe, so i think it doesn't… only the provision for the knuckle is different I guess). bet the pump is in the way of the fuel tank, so i'll have to remove it either way.

    I'll have to dig in further or tackle that when i get there.
    The sub frames are slightly different but the mounting points are the same so the kit would not be a problem the sub frame only changes the lower points below the mounts
    looks like the steering gear might get in the way of our fuel tank though if you use hicas
    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c … AS_001.jpg
    here is some eliminators
    http://photography.timtrott.co.uk/galle … it-r33.jpg
    http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ … eM3014.jpg
    1984 300ZX - 1988 VG30T Engine, Trans, Diff, ECU
    1987 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car ), 1988 300ZX TURBO - ( Parts Car )
    1972 240Z -- Full restore - L28ET L6 Engine from 280zx, T-5 transmission, Rear diff from the 87
    1998 Mazda B-2500, And a lot of bikes
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    RXGhost wrote: [
    I'll have to dig in further or tackle that when i get there.
    The sub frames are slightly different but the mounting points are the same so the kit would not be a problem the sub frame only changes the lower points below the mounts
    looks like the steering gear might get in the way of our fuel tank though if you use hicas
    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c … AS_001.jpg
    here is some eliminators
    http://photography.timtrott.co.uk/galle … it-r33.jpg
    http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k141/ … eM3014.jpg
    thnx… looks like i'll just remove the pump and use DMANN's eliminator bar in the following weeks. I want to find a diff and put my links back on so I can install this thing (if it ever gets to my house?).