electric water pump?

  • BLOZ UP
    BLOZ UP
    Senior Member
    • 2971

    #16
    [quote]Careless wrote: [quote=BLOZ UP]
    Originally posted by Careless
    a pump attached to the waterpump via a pulley
    Genius.
    I meant a motor attached to the waterpump. sorry.
    Oh, I know what you meant. It just gave me a brilliant idea…
    BLOZ UP.com
    It is not recommended to confirm proper installation by driving into walls or other barriers as this could cause personal injury or damage to the vehicle.
  • springerc69
    springerc69
    Senior Member
    • 248

    #17
    [quote]Careless wrote: [quote=BLOZ UP]
    Originally posted by Careless
    a pump attached to the waterpump via a pulley
    Genius.
    I meant a motor attached to the waterpump. sorry.
    That seems pretty pointless.

    How is adding the weight of a 12v motor (not light) to turn the stock pump better than just driving the stock pump off the crank how? I've seen this done on a car at the strip, he didn't run any other pulleys on his engine, just 12v motor bolted to the inner fender, with a long belt to the water pump. Seems like a lot of work for little benefit, but then again who wants to spend $600 on an electric water pump.

    http://bde-performance.com/pump.htm

    Side note:
    This company also offers a conversion kit for TH40, 4L80E(coming soon), and Powerglide automatic transmissions, so when serious drag guys get tired of killing stock Z transmissions.

    http://bde-performance.com/th400.htm
    http://bde-performance.com/powerglide.htm
    1984 NA to T Digi-Dash, Morgan's Cam Gears @ -3, Team Green Air Filter, Top Mount Intercooler, Turbo XS Boost Controller, Greddy Type RS BOV, CM 3" Down Pipe, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, and Maxima E-Fans.

    1984 NA 2+2 - New Project Solid Axle Rear - Former Best 1/4 mile 13.452 @105.77mph.
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    #18
    It isn't about weight. it's about being able to purge the coolant to the radiator, with the rad fans on while in the pits to cool off your engine.

    it's the same issue that people have with drag runs where they stop right at the end of the race and coast to the pits with a car that has serious water-movement issues as far as efficiency of the stock pumps.

    a friend of mine keeps his revs above idle as he coasts to the pits so that he can have the pump move more water throughout the system until the thermostat closes.... he's learned his lesson from two other engines, and so far no issues using this method.

    having a 12v motor and doing it that way would be easier.
  • BLOZ UP
    BLOZ UP
    Senior Member
    • 2971

    #19
    That's what I thought, that it wasn't really about weight, but getting the pulley off the crank, and keeping the flow of the water constant.

    Speaking of flow… does anyone know what RPM the stock water pump flows the best at/is most efficient? Does such a thing exist? I suppose it depends a lot on what fan you have as well…
    BLOZ UP.com
    It is not recommended to confirm proper installation by driving into walls or other barriers as this could cause personal injury or damage to the vehicle.
  • Rat1314
    Rat1314
    Senior Member
    • 451

    #20
    DeleriousZ wrote: How would you get the thermostat to stay open once the coolant got past that point?
    A thermostat opens when it reaches a certain temperature not from water flow.
    Originally posted by TearingRaven
    Honestly, if you have to ask this question and common sense does not kick in immediately, you need to be riding the bus. Preferably while wearing a helmet.
  • DeleriousZ
    DeleriousZ
    Senior Member
    • 6874

    #21
    [quote]Rat1314 wrote:
    Originally posted by DeleriousZ
    How would you get the thermostat to stay open once the coolant got past that point?
    A thermostat opens when it reaches a certain temperature not from water flow.
    That's what I was getting at. Once the coolant got below the thermostat close temperature, the pump would have negligible effect.

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd
  • Chrisw_2003
    Chrisw_2003
    Senior Member
    • 2503

    #22
    yeah but if you had a low temp thermostat, like 150 degree one, that shouldn't be to bad on leaving it open
  • Rat1314
    Rat1314
    Senior Member
    • 451

    #23
    [quote]DeleriousZ wrote: [quote=Rat1314]
    Originally posted by DeleriousZ
    How would you get the thermostat to stay open once the coolant got past that point?
    A thermostat opens when it reaches a certain temperature not from water flow.
    That's what I was getting at. Once the coolant got below the thermostat close temperature, the pump would have negligible effect.
    I know what you mean now, I thought that was a odd comment to come from you but you have a good point. How cool would you want to get the motor anyway? if it's between races getting it too cool might be a bad thing?
    Originally posted by TearingRaven
    Honestly, if you have to ask this question and common sense does not kick in immediately, you need to be riding the bus. Preferably while wearing a helmet.
  • OK85ZX
    OK85ZX
    Senior Member
    • 1690

    #24
    you don't generally use a thermostat with an electric pump, you would use a temp sensor and have the water pump rpm change based on temp.
    1985 NA2T(now RB) * 1988 SS x2 * 1984 AE x3 * 2006 350Z
  • Tempestas
    Tempestas
    Senior Member
    • 225

    #25
    But you would still want some sort of gutten t-stat or restrictor. Water will not flow the same with it removed and wide open. At least on other engines i have seen this… can't remember how the water flows off the top of my head, but you have 2 paths on one side and 1 on the other of the housing.
  • DeleriousZ
    DeleriousZ
    Senior Member
    • 6874

    #26
    What about using the lines for the heater core with an electronic valve on one side.

    1988 300zxt. gt35, stance, etc. Wheels: Varrstoen ES2 18x9.5 et-13 225/40. 18x10.5 et0 245/40
    1990 jetta vr6'd
  • NewJerseyZ
    NewJerseyZ
    Senior Member
    • 191

    #27
    I found this while considering going to an electric circulatory pump …

    http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart … r_Type=300

    … which is listed for the Z32 300ZX. However, I believe it will work with our cars as well since the blocks (which is where the pumps are located) are virtually identical. I even checked Courtesy Nissan and looked at water pumps for both z31's and z32's --- they look to be the same part. And the mounting bolt patterns for both (mechanical and electric) are the same. As for controlling the pump speed (to maintain temperature as you now can run without a thermostat), the Davies Craig 820 module looks like a winner.

    (http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Controlle … tails.aspx)

    It can also control your electric fan, which will now be a necessity without the pulley driven water pump.
  • tacozzz
    tacozzz
    Member
    • 52

    #28
    i got a vg30e and a vg30dett block along with a vg30e water pump....ill check it out tomorrow and post some pics.


    and the water pump gaskets are the same according to autozone. but different part numbers for the pumps.

    snout and pulley flanges seem to be different
    We choose to do things not because they are easy but because they are hard.
  • Careless
    Careless
    Senior Member
    • 13279

    #29
    tacozzz wrote: snout and pulley flanges seem to be different
    that wouldn't matter for an electric pump. all that matters is they bolt up.
  • tacozzz
    tacozzz
    Member
    • 52

    #30
    Careless wrote: that wouldn't matter for an electric pump. all that matters is they bolt up.
    this is true
    We choose to do things not because they are easy but because they are hard.