The VG33E information thread

XTigga, you can go to a VG30 computer, and run NisTune.

it will require significant EFI/Wiring, re-pinning of the ECU plugs, and some hard component swaps - it is possible, but it is a lot of work

Just a quick question for anyone who has done a VG33 swap into their Z31. I have recently purchased one from a '98 Pathfinder, and I've been trying to rig up a way to do a compression test on the engine before I tear it down and do a rebuild for boost. The issue I am having is with a Z31 starter lining up with the flywheel. I am using a stock VG30E flywheel, bolted to a stock VG33E block, mounted on the starter bracket that bolts to the side of the engine block. I can't seem to get it to line up, though. It seems just a hair off. Has anyone else had this issue? When I get back home, I'll take a picture to show what I'm talking about.

All of the accessories and mounting brackets on a Pathfinder are on the opposite side from what you need.

If you are going to try to find a way to reuse your Z31 accessories by machining the crank, it doesn't matter. Otherwise you are about to find yourself spending a few months buying lots of cheap brackets and accessory parts and paying a load for shipping. I paid as much for my parts and shipping as I did for my JDM engine.

I am going to swap in a VG30E crankshaft and camshafts, so accessories aren't an issue. I will be using a VG30 water pump, alternator, p.s. pump, etc. It has been done without any complications, just read Texas_Ace's post. My question pertains specifically to the starter. I believe either my starter bracket is slightly bent, or just needs a spacer or something to put it in the correct position.

I used my VG30e starter and flywheel on my VG33e Pathfinder engine. It just bolted on there.

I'm thinking the issue is with the mounting bracket itself. The second bolt hole is currently empty, as the threads in that hole on the block are a bit buggered. I think once I clean them out with a tap, I should be able to mount up everything properly.

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So… quick question. Has anyone installed an oil bypass valve on the VG33? I ordered one from Nissan, and tried to install it in mine… it did not go according to plan. I damaged the part, and then had to obliterate it trying to work it back out. Does anyone know the proper "installation" technique for this? Fortunately, the part was only like $6 at the dealership.

legit bro, you been breaking shit left and right.

this might not be for you

yo u got questions PM me, ill drop my # if you want to text questions

Alright, first off, I read till my brain seems to want to jump out of my head so trust me I have read before this. I hope my questions aren't stupid or obvious.

I have been reading conflicting information

1. Cranks: it seems the only reason to choose a 30 or 33 crank is ONLY based off the accessories one wants to use. This would mean the 30 and 33 cranks are exactly the same except the snout which means you have to pick one or the other and it's not exactly the best option to machine the crank to work with crank pulley configurations. So here comes the the conflicting part came across a post (of course the pictures aren't there anymore) but the snout broke off, I bet it was a lemon, of a 33 crank and people chiming in the 33 cranks are inferior. Oh it gets better, I have also read that the 33 cranks are superior to 30 cranks in the way of balancing and construction. Supposedly E cranks are nitrided at factory and you have to get them re nitrided if reground.

Side note: the VG30DE has forged crank and rods but are shot peened at the factory and are said to be 100% stronger than if it weren't shot peened. I found this to be a bit odd because that suggests that DE cranks are superior the E cranks but many claim they are only a half step better than an E crank so why bother trying to make it work. I know for a fact (as many know but had to at least see half of the story myself) that E cranks are nodular iron and DE cranks are indeed forged.

2. Oil pumps: so is there a difference between a 30 and 33 pump? If so could someone show pictures of the differences beyond oil filter location? I have yet to see the inside of both. I know what the 30 pumps looks like because I found out mine has a broken gear and surprised my engine that I'm currently rebuilding didn't Granade because of it. Is the ONLY reason to go with a 30 over a 33 solely based on the crank one decides to use? Again there is conflicting information saying that the 33 oil pump is a different style than and thus inferior to the 30 and DE pumps but there is information suggesting that the 33 pumps are superior to 30. As far as E engines go the auto turbo ported oil pumps are superior (supposedly) so why aren't they the norm? Why don't you see or at least I don't "Oh I'm running the ported auto turbo pump" over and over on build threads?

Another side note: supposedly the DE oil pumps are superior to both and physically bigger and there is talk of attempts at adapting a DE pump to ether a 30 or 33 insomuch that there are even cam gear spacers to move the came gears out available on z31online but I haven't found a single instance of someone actually doing it. Why would someone make these spacers if it wasn't profitable? I would think I would have found at least one person adapting a DE oil pump to an E. Or is it a enthusiast thing like Mr.510 crank pulley adapters that are impossible to get because he (Mr.510) can't keep up with demand.

I apologize for the rambling just so vary puzzling.

I am planning on going with a 33 (for obvious reasons) in my 92 pathfinder and want to place the accessories like a 99 pathfinder ware they are basically opposite and lower than they are now. If there is an overwhelming reason not to to use the 33 crank like for instance the (dispite what seems common knowledge) oil pump of the 33 being inferior? But is it inferior? I don't know because I don't know who to take their word. I've asked around but the posts I keep finding are ancient and have yet to receive ananswer.There must be a reason why people are willing to run a 30 oil pump (using the 33 block and heads and pistons and using everything else from the 30 seems to be the overwhelmingly the popular choice) or do they run what they can to keep their accessories the same and will sacrifice having a "inferior" oil pump.

I think most people opt for the vg30 crank and oil pump in order to keep the stock accessories in a z31. If you're running a pathfinder, this is moot. As for the oil pumps themselves, there is difference in flow, but unless you're running a high performance build, I doubt the flow differences would be measurable in terms of reliability. From the pictures I've seen, the design of the VG30 and VG33 pumps are the same, with the differences being the depth of the cavities (VG30 turbo auto's being the largest/deepest, hence more flow) and (of course) the size of the hole for the crank snout.

Yes, same except snout. There is an early and late vg30 too (like in the later Quests).

Large and small snout. Oil pickup tube locations.

Check out Nissan Nut's page: http://nissannut.com

He has a comparison for the 33 vs 30. http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg3…are/index.html

And has picture of some of the oil pumps.

http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg3…er_options.JPG

Eventually I'm going to turbo it so I guess high performance (not going to get into it now) so I would prefer a better pump. I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine at the moment (I wish I could do a 33 but in a bind and don't want to just toss a engine at it in, probably, unknown condition since it has to last for an unknown amount of time). I'm asking because since I plan on turbo I would like to know if the if the 33 pump would suffice and that way I could just get a 33 build it and bingo bango. If not I'll get a 30 crank and auto turbo pump.

I read that article. Doesn't answer my questions.

The VG33 stock pump, installed with factory tolerances, will sometimes give you shockingly low pressure (like 12PSI) at warm or hot idle. This is just a VG33 "thing" AFAIK, you see pathy guys complaining about it but it's within spec and driving pressures are fine. Personal opinion - the VG3x with a Z31 oil pan does not really have enough oil capacity for a turbo car without an oil cooler, maybe plan on doing one.

I had this in a comment above but according to the '96 Pathy service manual, page LC-4, minimum idle oil pressure is 9PSI. Z31 is 11. That's with 10w30. Just an FYI.