The VG33E information thread

Yes, you can use the either camshaft hears with either camshaft.

The gears have to match the crank you are using.

As for regrinding them, why start with 3.3 cams? unless you are building an NA motor?

you can get the round tooth crank gear for the vg30 crank.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19915

Thats my question. Is there any disadvantages of regrinding a 3.3 camshaft? Are you implying that starting with lets say a vg30et camshaft will result in more lift or duration potential? Im building an NA engine with moderate nitrous use. If you can regrind the 3.3 camshafts to the same regrind offerings as the 3.0 camshafts then I would prefer to use the 3.3 cams since I have them out of the engine and I can send them to Isky whenever I want. I can also keep my car on the road this summer instead of dismantling my current engine and waiting for the regrinds to show up.

-Colton

Frankly, i have never had cam's reground and am not totally up on what is possible with it so i am not the best one to ask.

No biggie. Can anyone shed some light on my question with regards to camshaft regrinds?

Yes, people turn them in for cores. you can buy the cams you want, send your cams back as cores.

I got a quick question, dunno if its already been answered elsewhere, i only looked around on the site for about 15 mins. I bought a z31 from a master technician at nissan. He said he swapped in the VG33, but im not entirely sure this is the case. How can I tell if its an actual VG33 or just an NA VG30? This would help save alot of time, as i have a VG30ET and was thinking about swapping all the turbo stuff to the VG33 (if it is one) and putting that in the car. Please lemme know, any help would be freaking awesome!

thank you! You have just saved me countless hours.

right between the two cylinder banks, the VG33 has a "33' debossed (sticks out) casting on the last hump, where the transmission mates to, right,

right under the lower intake manifold, there is a knock sensor on the VG33's. you can use a mirror and a flash light to inspect to see if it's there. later vg30's may have that too. im not sure… it could have also been plugged.

the VG33 also has a block heater on the driver side, right over the rear transmission bracket hump at the back of the block. IM NOT SURE if vg30's have that because mine didn't.

the VG33 also has VG33 carved into the small machined surface at the edge of the bracket hump.

You can check all these instead of just one incase you can't really see the small carving.

i had to take steel wool and clear the gunk, but i found the little serial number carving. I was right, not a vg33. sadness.. oh well - was only $1200.

i encourage you to read before posting questions that are answered in the first post

first post on this forum, bring back an older thread sorry… i have an 89 pathfinder with the VG30i (throttle body intake) TBI and i am building a VG33 to put in it.
i was planning on using my TBI intake on top to build a VG33i as it has been done before, that way i avoid any major wiring problems for the first time around.
i am now considering building the block to use the VH45 pistons (93mm) which would put it at a 3.4 liter. i would have to use VG30DE or VG30DETT rods for the bigger wrist pin diameter=same as VH45 wrist pin… and i would have to have the piston machined for clearance for the valves. the compression ratio would get bumped up to about 10:1 with these pistons.
my question is will the TBI be able to handle the job of the extra compression, and the extra 100mL of displacement…? like i said VG33i 's have been built and work well.
my other option/idea is to do the 98mm bore that was mentioned in the first page, and i would make use of the Titan's 98mm pistons. no VG rods match the wrist pin diameter so honing the DE/DETT wrist pins out slightly as well as machining the Titan pistons for valve clearance would be in order.
Same question. can/will the TBI be able to handle the .5 liter upgrade in displacement as well as the unknown CR ratio??? im guessing it to be about 10:1. .



thankyou for the help. 8)

information to help answer my questions:
my pathfinder is built for daily driving/4wheeling/rock crawling.
i staying NA no matter what.
im just looking for the best torque options that are capable for this build.
what type of fuel do i have to use for the 10:1 CR?
i also have some questions and coments on the cam shaft topic as well but i will let this be it for now.

Update and some good info for everyone

I purchased a cheap ass Z32 underdrive aluminum pulley off ebay

this fit the vg33 perfectly, and has the same belt setup as a w-series pulley. This will work with all stock accesories no changes.

problems that need to be adressed, i have no PS so i cut the PS pulley off of it on the lathe, then machined the pulley flat on the front.

DONT FORGET TO DRILL AND TAP SOME HOLES IN THIS THING FOR A PULLER. I did and it took me almost 2 hours to get the god damn thing pried off of threre!

there were no timing marks, i used a protractor and ground them in with the edge of a file

the VG33 has a much longer snout than a z32. I wound up having to put spacers behind the bolt to get the pulley tightened down. I cut the snout off the stock vg33 pulley on the lathe. THen i also put a large washer on there as well.

The pulley will hit the collar on the lower cover of a VG33. I cut the collar off flush. It will also hit the lower most bolt on the cover. this must be removed

Stock alt/WP belt JUST fits, at full tight it is just perfect



Thanks to careless for posting the 32mm crank dimentions and the info for this!!

Also, aside from the pulley thing posted above, the only thing i did to this motor to put it in the car was move the oil filter. I switched allt he external stuff, t-stat housing, manifolds, etc.

To put the oil filter in the stock spot, i installed the stud, and put a 1/2" galley plug in the bypass hole with some loctite. Then, in the stock filter location, there needed to be a bypass made to get the oil in the block. My oil pump had a solid pad for teh filter adapter. I was able to remove the oil pump, dissasemble, and port a trench between the two holes. This makes a nice bypass channel, and i was able to make a plate out of 3/8" aluminum to bolt on in place of the filter adapter.