Engine finally assembled (cat out of the bag)

[BLOZ UP]

damn those holes look good.

[G-E]

405 reliable hp is much better than 470 that could take a shit one day

I think this is the reason most of the dsm's break, they are tuned within an inch of their lives to produce the paper numbers, and when the weather changes or they go racing, crunch crunch crunch

[Jason84NA2T]

The story on the old engine:
When I tuned the car, I had never planned on being in boost for more than 20 seconds or so. This completely slipped my mind when I egged on a bike to race (badged GSXR-750). From 50-130 we were dead even until I started to pull very slightly. Around 140mph I had half a car length when I felt a sharp dropoff in power. I quickly let off and coasted down to see two things behind me: a bike and some blue smoke. It must have knocked, it's the only explanation. After being under boost for that extended period of time I bet the charge temperatures rose and sent it over the detonation threshold. I guess this is my warning that I should always tune the car for ALL conditions ;-) including autobahn speeds and extended periods of boost. Anyway, it was smoking quite a bit out of the valve covers, bad enough that I didn't want to drive the car for smelling oil all the time. Hence the reason for this build, hopefully it will be the last engine I ever put in the car.

[Jason84NA2T]

Yeah, so the engine is finally assembled. I'd say plasti-gauging the mains took the longest of any one thing this far. Working in this 90+ degree heat has been a pain. I stole the pistons I was going to be using for tehpopa's motor and instead he will be using Arias pistons. It's simply too warm out to bother with my 87 right now, so the dinky turbo will be staying on. Either way, here's the rundown of the new parts combined with some of the old and a simple answer to why I again have credit card debt:

Bottom end:
100K mile 84NA block, magna-fluxed, bored .040 over.
Stock 84 crank.
BRC forged pistons, approx 8.5:1 compression.
Z32 rods with ARP rod bolts.
Clevite 77 main and rod bearings.
ARP main studs.
Rotating assembly balanced to under +/-1 gram.
------
Fidanza flywheel
SBC DXD "FE" series clutch, ~700lb/ft capacity
UR underdrive pulley (still questionable on using this)
-----
Top end:
Heads ported by Finishline Motorsports
Ferrea valves
JWT valve springs
Schneider 270/262 .440/.420 cams
Russ' adjustable cam gears





New clutch, note the use of all 9 pressure plate bolts. I still wonder why only 6 of them are used with a stock clutch.



Those drops you see on the ground were just some of the sweat dripping off my forehead as I installed the clutch and pressure plate.

I still need to install everything on the front of the engine and do some other things before I drop it in, but I'm hoping I can be driving my car again by next week!

That's the majority of it. Now I have a motor capable of making some real power but I'm sticking a dinky turbo on it. Right now I don't care if it only makes 400whp... I have not driven my Z in almost two months and I'm getting sick of not being able to drive it on these nice summer days.